The Skinny guide to Abbeyhill, Edinburgh

This article has been updated for The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh 2023, available now at venues across Scotland. Inside, you'll find summaries of the city's different neighbourhoods, our recommendations on what to do, and deep-dives into the history and community that define Edinburgh.

Taking its name from the nearby ruins of Holyrood Abbey, Abbeyhill is one of the oldest parts of the capital. A mostly residential area made up of classic Edinburgh tenements, you’ll also find the super quaint Abbeyhill colonies here. Our Abbeyhill section also borders the boundary of Leith, halfway down Leith Walk, and the New Town where you’ll find the start of the city’s main LGBTQI+ thoroughfare.

Food and drink in Abbeyhill

In the heart of Abbeyhill, Easter Road is great for a coffee or quick bite on the go. You'll find an array of vegan offerings at Plant Bae (no. 220), expertly made coffees and a well-stocked cake counter at Australian-inspired coffee locale Little Fitzroy (no. 46), and fresh focaccia sandwiches stuffed with the flavours of Italy at Polentoni (no. 38). Around the corner, housed in Abbeyhill's former public toilets, Herringbone (3 Royal Terrace Gdns), is a cute space serving up seasonal ingredients and 30 different wines by the glass. A short stroll down the terrace and more seasonal plates can be found at The Gardener’s Cottage (1 London Rd). 

At the Leith Walk end of the area, find the best cannoli in the city at the Sicilian Pastry Shop (14 Albert St), while Canadian-style diner Down the Hatch (13 Antigua St) is a great burger and poutine joint. On Albert Place, flavourful offerings can be found across a trio of super chic eateries, from modern taqueria Bodega (no. 14), to inventive ramen joint Gulp Ramen (no. 9), or try the seasonal plates at The Little Chartroom's sister restaurant eleanore (no. 30). If you fancy a proper pint alongside some great food, along at the Omni Centre you’ll find Edinburgh Street Food, an enormous food court with indoor and outdoor seating, table service, DJs, local brews and food available from a plethora of local foodie favourites.

eleanore. Credit: Murry Orr

More street food can be found in the beer garden and taproom at The Bellfield Brewery (46 Stanley Pl), with a rotating roster of pop-up food vendors, while the neighbouring Safari Lounge (21 Cadzow Pl) pull a great pint too, always with a playful menu on the go. Swedish bar Joseph Pearce (23 Elm Row) is also a popular choice, while at the top of the Walk, you’ll find the start of an area lovingly referred to as the 'Pink Triangle', devoted to LGBTQI+ bars, clubs and restaurants – head to CC Blooms (23 Greenside Pl) for their drag nights.

Things to do in Abbeyhill

Set in the grounds of Holyrood Park, take a walk up Edinburgh's most famous hill, extinct volcano Arthur's Seat. The much closer (and smaller) Calton Hill is also a must, with a whole host of actual things you can do at its summit. Enjoy the views. Laugh uncontrollably at our feeble attempt to build the Parthenon, aka the National Monument of Scotland (google 'Edinburgh’s Disgrace' for more on that). Go to contemporary art centre Collective, housed in the former City Observatory. Go to one of two seasonal fire festivals – Beltane and Samhuinn – if you’re here at the right time.

If you'd rather not walk up a hill, take in a show at the Edinburgh Playhouse (18-22 Greenside Pl), and if you find yourself here in September, the annual Colony of Artists festival (16-17 Sep) allows you to snoop around the Abbeyhill colonies where you can enjoy exhibitions from local artists in the community.

Indie shops in Abbeyhill

If you’re looking to buy some cans to drink at home or in a local park, you’ll find a great selection of local beers at Cornelius (18 Easter Rd), while SPRY Wines (1 Haddington Pl) will sort you out for natural wines to sit in or take away. Valvona & Crolla (19 Elm Row) is also a must. Founded in 1934, this cured meat, cheese and wine haven is Scotland’s oldest delicatessen and Italian wine merchant.

For books, head to Topping & Company (2 Blenheim Pl) or the twee Typewronger Books (4a Haddington Pl) where indie books and typewriter maintenance are the name of the game. And if you're a vinyl enthusiast, second-hand record shop Vinyl Villains (5 Elm Row) will likely help plug some gaps in your record collection.