The New Bell

The service is slow at the New Bell. Not disorganised slow, cold food slow, or poor service slow. Perfectly slow. This is a smart, relaxed restaurant in which customers are invited to feel at ease in an atmosphere that sits somewhere between traditional city pub and upmarket rural inn. A treat, in other words.

The food is also relaxed and pub-like. Or, to be accurate, as relaxed and pub-like as a fine dining experience can be. A rockette, pear and walnut salad topped with grilled goats' cheese had the delicacy of a meringue, but with a tangy balance of favour. Meanwhile, pan seared venison with parsnip puree was hearty but not too solid. To follow, a fillet of pork with Puy lentils had a similar effect, if a very different taste, and a combination of baked cod with chorizo and saffron sauce was unusual and very delicious.

Desserts are easy. White peach cr'me brulée worked as well as one would expect, while dark chocolate and pistachio terrine was also quite delicious. The New Bell stands above the competition in two areas. They pay as much care to mains as they do to the lesser courses, when other restaurants of a similar standard often struggle. And the mood of the place: as bustle-free and elegant as a pub could ever be. [RJ Thomson]