Sacred Tum Tacos, Glasgow
One of the newest additions to Victoria Road, Sacred Tum's tacos are proof that, sometimes, you can win friends with salad
The explosive orange facade, the crisp and clean tiles, the light levels that you only really get from brand-new lightbulbs; Sacred Tum Tacos makes a mighty first impression. OK, that first impression is 'the Glasgow subway, but make it fashion', yet on a horrible midweek evening on Victoria Road that's no bad thing.
The high impact vibe extends to the food, in both size and style. These are hefty tacos, rammed to near-breaking point and each sporting multiple drizzles and garnishes. And while many of the classics in the taco canon are seriously meaty, Sacred Tum's best efforts are their veggie offerings. The Celeriac Pastor (£3) is a vegan take on the pork-and-pineapple original, with roasted strips of celeriac offering the soft but recognisable bite you're looking for, and charred pineapple adding a nice extra bit of depth to proceedings.
The mole basted carrot taco (£3.50) is even better – sweet but spicy veg, pickles for sharpness, an incredible tomatillo salsa that improves everything it touches, and salty, sour feta cheese to round the whole thing off. It's a rugged, chunky and very impressive bit of food which we just about manage to eat without throwing bits of it all over the table.
Results are more mixed on the carnivorous side. The chicken taco (£3), topped with pico de gallo and avocado, is undeniably tasty but doesn't feel nearly as inventive as the veggie options we've just smashed through. The fish taco (£3.50) is packed with aromatic, citrussy notes; a herb-encrusted lump of hake buried under some pickled cabbage, with more of that great salsa from earlier. The flavours are fantastic, but the texture can't quite stand up to the vice-like grip of the taco-eater, and so everything ends up a bit smooshed.
These are big aromas, vibrant colours, bright lights and bold flavours all packed into a small space and short timeframe. Sacred Tum, then, is the food equivalent of a ride on the subway; a big, dramatic whoosh to a host of exciting places, all in a whirlwind of bright orange.
Sacred Tum Tacos, 522 Victoria Rd, Glasgow