Phetpailin, Manchester

The word 'authentic' gets flung around a lot these days, but this tucked-away Thai restaurant gives the loose use of the term a run for its money

Review by Jason Bailey | 09 Jul 2014

Can a restaurant be described as an ‘everyman’? I hope so because that’s what I’m about to attempt. Let me elaborate: in fiction, an everyman is often a well-rounded character, with whom readers can readily identify. There is nothing lofty or extraordinary about these individuals; and they behave realistically (often in extraordinary circumstances), allowing for an even greater emotional connection. Take, for example, Arthur Dent in The Hitchhiker’s Guide to The Galaxy or Stan Marsh of South Park (if you’re a young buck). In the world of restaurants an everyman is rare, but that’s exactly how I’d describe Phetpailin.

You’ll find this homely Thai restaurant nestled on the North side of Manchester’s Chinatown opposite Woo Sang supermarket (with its impressive bank of tiny bubblegum machines) and wedged between karaoke bars, traditional Chinese restaurants and an establishment called ‘Long Legs’. (I promise you I don’t know what goes on in there.) The restaurant itself has the now-familiar entrance-cum-archway, which leads to a staircase flanked by images of Thailand, which look like they’ve been artificially aged by an Instagram filter. They haven’t, they’re just quite old. Paired with the fake greenery and fairy lights, they contribute to a pleasant feeling of kitschy nostalgia. If you’ve ever visited Chaophraya, just close your eyes and picture their chandeliers and lifesize golden Buddhas; now think of the opposite and that’s Phetpailin.

Service would be best described as ‘psychic’. The majority of the staff have that front-of-house spidey sense that means they appear split seconds before you decide what you’ll order; you never have to wait for anything, and you’re never pestered unnecessarily. Questions about the menu are answered with polite confidence, so if you’re an indecisive dish selector fear not: just pass all the responsibility to the waitress, they’ll see you right.

Starters cover the classic spring rolls and Thai fish cakes, but though both are executed well I urge you to push the boat out and snap up some Mee Grob (crispy noodles with prawns and tamarind) or a Tom Yam Hed (vegetarian hot and sour soup). Both perfectly represent the food of Phetpailin in that they provide serious challenges to most of your senses. You will taste striking flavours, see vibrant colours, feel the burn of bird's-eye chillies. It’s the closest you’ll come to synaesthesia. At least without narcotics.

The main courses offer the same sensory ambush, except this time there’s a classic option that I’d recommend. On my first visit I played it safe, sharing a Red Thai curry with one of my dining partners, who had just come back from a visit to Thailand. I was reliably informed that, in both appearance and taste, the Thai curry was bang-on authentic. If you insist on being adventurous, the menu provides more ‘exciting’ options: I’d firmly recommend the Pla Rad Prik (crispy fried tilapia with chilli garlic sauce) as an alternative. Appearance-wise the ample portions are heaped into bowls and on to plates with care but no great flair; if they did attempt a finer class of plating up it wouldn’t sit well with the place’s homely style. And, one final word (or acronym) on the menu. BYOB. Yes, BYOB. 

Manchester has some fantastic restaurants. What it doesn’t have are many eateries where anybody and everybody is going to have a great time; a venue with such broad appeal and undeniable quality that you’ll wish it was less of an anomaly. Phetpailin is one of those places.
If you liked Phetpailin, try: 
I Am Pho, Manchester
Tokyou, Liverpool
Koya, London
Phetpailin, 46 George Street, Manchester M1 4HF