La Concha

Almost invisible to the naked eye at first, La Concha nestles in a cosy basement in the heart of Stockbridge. Stylish décor and flattering lighting transform the intimate subterranean dining space, and the waiting staff are attentive and reassuringly knowledgable.

La Concha’s menu is a joy to read: concise, with just three or four choices for each starter or main, not to mention a simple, thoughtful little addition of antipasti to begin, such as home-baked bread with olive oil and balsamic. The day’s special starter of baked aubergine in tomato sauce, mozzarella and parmesan was tasty, though a generous portion for one person. The deep fried calamari was temptingly light and crispy. Steering away from all-too-common pizza-based main courses, the venison main was beautiful, tender and served pink with golden potatoes. The seafood linguine never fell back on the pasta element to carry the dish: teeming with mouth-watering mussels, clams, squid and some of the fattest, loveliest prawns I’ve happened upon in a while, it was served in a subtle but tasty tomato sauce, perhaps a little too salty but otherwise faultless. To finish, the tiramisu had a delicious intoxicating edge, while the lemon and cardamom tart was a little creamy but still a treat.

La Concha could be considered a little expensive to indulge in the full works. However, for those looking for a tasty bite in relaxed surroundings rather than a mammoth Italian feast, a course or two won’t see you fleeced. A modest BYOB charge makes La Concha an all the more agreeable, snug evening venue. [Rosie Hedger]