Catch 22

When my grilled sardine starter arrives with crispy skin, the flesh between the little bones is sweet and lovely. But I'm surprised that the lemon and butter isn't softer. My dining companion is underwhelmed by the sweet potato soup, too. "Needs more seasoning", she grumbles. It's a pity because up until then Catch 22 had been doing brilliantly. G1 group's new fish restaurant looks gorgeous: decked out in rich warm reds and browns, the lights are dim enough to make the booths cosy but bright enough to make the silverware shine. And the service is spot on. My main course is much better, a raft of juicy roast halibut with sauce vierge, on asparagus and a very buttery mash. Yum. Monica has scallops and a salty pea and ham risotto which she enjoys but isn't blown away by. It's all good food, just not terribly imaginative. A little more Yossarian leftfield-ness, and Catch 22 would really benefit. [Cara McGuigan]