Bigos Review

Venue Review by Michael Duffy | 12 Nov 2006

We may be in the middle of Leith Walk, but upon entering Bigos we could very well be in Poland's Tatra Mountains such is the décor. The pine walls and cosy interior brings to mind the quaint restaurants you come across on European ski resorts. To accompany the meal I've bought some Polish beer from next door – that's right it's BYO and there's no corkage fee – big plus.

For a starter I select the potato pancake with chilli, and the Bigos stew for a main. The pancake arrives swiftly and is pleasantly crisp, non-greasy and covered in chilli, which, although tasty, could do with a bit more oomph. The Bigos is advertised as sauerkraut with a variety of meats and mushrooms, yet cabbage dominates, and I can only detect a few sliced frankfurters and a faint odour of fungi. It's still flavorsome and filling though.

This is not haute cuisine, or even haute rustic cuisine, but the portions are massive, and as far as Polish food goes in Scotland I haven't heard tell of better. The other eaters seem to agree, nose deep as they are in their plates. The food is tasty, simple and satisfying, and the prices are as low as Poland's Vistula River in the summertime.

Bigos, 277 Leith Walk, Edinburgh