Agua, Edinburgh

A Crustacean Bar is not an establishment visited by the little mermaid in her later years, but a fish frenzy now open on the Grassmarket. Part of the Apex Hotel, decor is sensible, straightforward, and understated.

Boasting a variety of fish from pollock to bream, there are no prawn cocktails or fried calamari on this menu. Out of six starter options (veggies beware) I plumped for Caledonian scallops with a carrot and lemongrass puree, pea shoot, cress and apple salad. Three tender scallops sans roe ("the orange bit") were well presented, with a slight crust, the fragrant puree complementing the crunchy apple. A ceviche of salmon, Crail crab, chilli, lime and coriander, however, was disappointingly bland, with the texture pleasing but no supporting flavour.

On to mains - the stand-out halibut with herb crust, confit tomatoes and zucchini (erm are we in the southern hemisphere?) was sumptuous, prepared to a perfectly moist finish. The pollock with champ, bacon and red wine sauce was questionable; the fish could not be faulted yet the accompaniments lacked any real substance to enhance the taste buds and left a little to be desired.

An unusual honey crème brulee was delectably rich - although it was completely cold throughout. Scottish berries "minestrone" and lemon sorbet was an architectural feat and startlingly plated, but a sweet tooth was required.

New Zealand sauvignon blanc (£25.50) was fruity, sharp and hit all the right notes. While the food was reasonable and service attentive the meal was much more forgettable than the bill.