That's The Spirit

There is a problem with Scotland and scotch whisky. Scotch comes from Scotland. Scotland is not a large country, but the demand for scotch stretches around the world. There is so much demand for scotch that it could be viewed as a waste to build a distillery in Scotland and not produce whisky. However, the aging of whiskies is a long-haul process and when a new distillery opens it will often produce vodka to generate some immediate income. Traditionally, Scottish vodka has been of a low-grade, 'keeps the party flowing' quality but recently there's been a shift towards producing a subtle drink that you don't need to drown in OJ in order to choke it down.

Valt is a vodka made from Scottish barley and mountain water with an apparently unique quintuple distillation process. Blackwoods is a distillery in Lerwick on Shetland which is producing high quality vodka and gin, and there are a several other good local gins available. Two fellow gin fans and I tasted three:

Blackwoods limited edition, which as well as the normal botanicals has some hand picked Shetland herbs and flowers such as Angelica, Meadowsweet, Sea Pink, and Wild Water Mint, and wades in at a massive 60 % by volume.

Boe, made in Doune, is named after Franz de la Boë, the professor of medicine who invented gin to cleanse the blood and was sure it would cure 'one third of all diseases'. It includes cassia bark from Skye in its flavourings and is 47 % by volume.

The now ubiquitous Hendricks in its distinctive dark bottle is from Girvan in Ayrshire and uses rose water and cucumber as an addition to the normal mix of flavouring ingredients. It is 41.4 % by volume.

Inevitably, all three of us chose a different favourite, so all the gins could be viewed as the winner.

Reactions to Blackwoods ranged from 'sweet beginning' to 'harsh', 'moreish' to 'cloying'. Boe seemed to make slightly less impact, being 'gentle' and 'unremarkable'; we picked up hints of coffee and, unsurprising given its namesake, one of us found it distinctly 'medicinal'. Ultimately, it was the Hendricks that really sent the tastebuds into overdrive. 'Reminds me of trifle!' cooed one of us and we all mellowed with the 'warm, smooth taste and texture'.

All would make a welcome picnic alternative to a peaty fireside malt, but if you really want to play 'what IS that?!' with your guests, pick up a bottle of Blaand.

A.k.a. Fallachan (hidden treasure), Blaand is made by fermenting whey, a by-product of cheese production more commonly used to bulk up commercial pastry and animal feed. Introduced by the Vikings, it was once the drink of choice in the remoter parts of Scotland, fortifying many a Shetland fisherman and self-sufficient crofter. Now, Lanarkshire cheesemaker Humphrey Errington has decided the spirit is ripe for a revival and become the first commercial brewer in the drink's history. Boasting an alcohol content similar to wine (13% abv) and a distinctively clean taste like a dry fino sherry, Blaand is still a little tricky to lay your hands on but keep your eyes peeled for Humphrey's stand at food fairs near you.

Wild Water Mint Gin, Cheese Wine... there's no excuse to show up with a quart of Grant's any more.