Burgher Burger: Top of the Pop-Ups

In case you haven't noticed, there's been a bit of bother in the twin worlds of politics and big numbers that only exist in theory. This year's hot media meme is of a divided nation of awful rich people and aggrieved poor people, and it's worked its way into every corner of public life, even our humble food section. As Aoife Behan puts it, “the flashy, expensive fine dining scene feels a little bit like a symbol of a lot of things that have now all gone a bit wrong. Times are tough, everyone seems a little bit depressed, and frankly I think people need a bit of fun.” Enter Burgher Burger, a guerilla pop-up restaurant using the power of ground meat to bring 'the man' and the plebs together, or something like that.

Aoife is the brains behind the concept, where top Edinburgh chefs will take over greasy-spoon cafes for one-off nights of burgers, beer, and banter. She's a woman with a bit of previous in this area, having run a secret supper club from her dining room for the last 9 months. Full to burst since its inception, the supper club gave Aoife the sense that this whole clandestine dining thing could be a goer, and worth exploring further. “There's definitely a gap for more underground events built around food in Edinburgh,” she says.

“Edinburgh people like good food, and different, fun experiences, so if you give them an opportunity to get away from the norm and out of the restaurants they'll go for it.” Her 400-strong mailing list for Burgher Burger and the ten minutes it took to sell out the first event seem like pretty compelling evidence to back her up. “Nowadays, people are looking for a real experience when they go out, rather than just chucking their money at somebody. They want something different and exciting, something new.”

The event has been planned in plain sight, with blogs and social media used to hype Burgher Burger while the whole shebang takes shape. Aoife points to the lack of huge start-up costs as one of the benefits of this guerilla approach; low overheads mean no pesky bank managers sticking their beaks in. The plan appears to be a straightforward one: grab your chefs, get the suppliers on board (Hugh Grierson for the meat, Innis and Gunn for the booze), and find a cafe with plenty of seats that won't panic at the thought of being overrun by chefs and furious carnivores. 

Aoife says: “Some of the venues I was looking into freaked out a bit at the thought of having these posh chefs coming into their kitchens, but then at the same time these 'classic' kinds of cafes shut at about 3 in the afternoon. They get business they otherwise might not, we get kitted-out venues, and everyone's happy and having a bit of a fun.”

With that in mind, the relative lack of pop-ups and underground food in Edinburgh seems a little odd. Aoife's venue search has suggested a lack of appropriate space, but she also believes that there are other factors at play. “There's an element of fear,” she suggests, “because the fine dining scene is so established and entrenched, people might be wary of taking a big chance on something new. Then there's the weather, which is a real factor. In places like London, pop-ups often start with street stalls and outdoor venues then move into premises. Trying that in February in Edinburgh... it wouldn't go well.”

So the decision to be indoors was somewhat enforced, but why go for burgers, besides the brilliant punning potential? “It's hard to resist a burger really,” Aoife explains. “Everyone loves burgers. They also have the benefit of being accessible, and are the kind of thing the average person would eat. On the other hand, they're very different to what the kind of chefs we've been talking to would do on a daily basis, so it's a chance to take them out of their comfort zone.” 

Ah yes, the chefs, jus-wielding auteurs who take pride in their refinement and technical ability. Chefs who put their all into their food, food that reflects their vision. Chefs who are apparently more than happy to knock up a few burgers. Aoife says: “Every chef I've spoken to has been different, but generally they've been interested by the chance to show their fun side off. 

“In that fine dining world you can get a bit pigeon-holed and hemmed in, so I think chefs are glad for an event like this that gives the opportunity to do something a bit different. “

First up is Scottish chef of the year Neil Forbes, from Cafe St Honore, rustling up a bacon cheeseburger. He's followed next month by Tony Singh from Olorosso who's unleashing an array of spices for his 'bhangra burger'. “This kind of model is a great way for these fine dining chefs to show that they are cool and down-to-earth,” Aoife says. “As well as that, they get a chance to encourage people to try their food. A lot of the people we've spoken to are glad of the chance to show a younger crowd that any perceived snobbery around restaurant dining isn't coming from them; they just want to make good food.”

There will be another event in April, but, in keeping with the undercover guerilla nature of the project, Aoife won't tell us who'll be cooking. We've devoted a page of the magazine to the event, and she won't even tell us. Keeping things under wraps just adds to the fun, and in any case the blueprint seems to be sorted.

“It's all about the burgers. There are no choices, and if people want to come they have sign up to what we're offering. The night is about having a brilliant chef cooking a brilliant burger, so there's no room for veggies and no chance to be picky. If you don't like burgers... well, there isn't very much point in coming, is there?” Burgher Burger; where we're all in it together, just as long as we like meat.