Go away! To Portland

Portland feels like the hip, unassuming, younger sibling of Seattle. Arriving after the three hour drive south from the older brother, you can't help but notice how much more subtle the city is. Portland feels like a small town; there are green spaces aplenty and quirky local shops – but it is a city. A city full of independent thinkers, activists and artists all working together to make this a great place to be. No wonder The Gossip's Beth Ditto (who is a resident) calls it “the friendliest big little city in America”.

In Portland the alternative is mainstream – where else would a campaign to shop locally be entitled 'Keep Portland Weird'? This is the home of zine symposiums and sock knitting conferences. Comic bookshops nestle up to brewpubs, tattoo parlours sit side by side with record stores. Creativity is big in Portland, and it is not just confined to the many museums and galleries that dot its streets. A DIY attitude seeps through the sidewalks, and evidence of an indie mentality punctuates the streetscapes.

What makes Portland so special? Beautiful parks, bordered by mountains, the Pacific Ocean coast being so close, combined with some of the most liberal free speech laws in America. Portland has been described, positively, as the most 'European American city'. Our stereotypical view of an American city just doesn't match up to the reality here. In a country where the car is king, Portland favours bicycles. Big global brands are eschewed for supporting the local economy. Sustainability is a major issue.

Fight Club author and Portland inhabitant Chuck Palahniuk describes it as being a city full of 'fugitives and refugees' and he is probably right. The likes of the Dandy Warhols, The Decemberists and the late Elliot Smith are Portland natives, while Modest Mouse, The Shins, Sleater-Kinney and Stephen Malkmus have relocated. Aspiring musicians migrate to Portland attracted by the flourishing eclectic music scene, supportive venues plus a lower cost of living than LA or NY, while those artists who have already found success are attracted to the idea of moving to Portland by the warm welcome received and the cool crowd they met on tour. It is not just hipster indie guitar bands which dominate proceedings: hip hop, jazz, opera, you name it, they are all represented here. If you fancy something a little more racy in your evenings, Portland is said to have more strip clubs than any other US city. This is, after all, the place where the indie pin-ups the Suicide Girls originated.

Get an early start to the day, as breakfast is certainly the most important meal in Portland and an excuse to eat out and start socialising. A popular choice is a generous serving of strong Stumptown coffee (no they don't need help from their Seattle neighbours with coffee, thank you), alongside the US staple of 'biscuits & gravy' (soft dough covered in a white gravy made from the drippings of pork sausage, flour and milk). For something a little stronger, sample rich Oregon wines. And no need to resort to bland pale hop-free lagers – there are tasty microbreweries aplenty offering a range of curiously titled offerings. A night on the Buzzsaw anyone?

Portland is an urban planning marvel, divided into five easy to traverse sectors. These individual districts aren't soulless Truman Show suburbs; each has its own distinct quirky charm, and is well worth exploring. Ride on the MAX (Portland's light rail system) and mingle with the locals.

All of this gives Portland an intimate feel – you can be forgiven for thinking you have come 'home' rather than gone on holiday. It is this understated coolness, combined with it not being overwhelmed by tourists, that mean that you can act smug while discovering this special gem of a city for yourself.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

Getting there:

Fly from Glasgow with Canadian Affair to Vancouver, then take the Greyhound bus or Amtrak train south to Portland.

Where to stay:

The Jupiter, 800 East Burnside: The hipsters’ motel, with touring bands playing on site at Doug Fir lounge.

Eat:

Voodoo Donuts, 22 Southwest 3rd Avenue: This shop sells weird, wonderful and downright bizarre doughnuts around the clock. A favourite with all – kids, grannies, cops and even the odd passing rock star.

Shop:

Powells, 1005 W Burnside: The largest independent book store in the world. The shop is so big, it takes up a whole block. Maps are provided for the uninitiated. New and used books on every subject known to man cram this labyrinth.

Portland Market, Saturdays under the Burnside bridge: A selection of hand crafted goods, delicious food and lively entertainment.

Visit:

Hoyt Arboretum: Spend an pleasant afternoon walking through the trees, including many head-spinning tall firs.

Oregon Zoo: See a plethora of animals, weird & wonderful, including beavers, bald eagles and fruit bats. The zoo even holds concerts in the summer.