Tunisia: In a galaxy not so far away…

"When I was searching in 1977 for a place to make the first Star Wars movie," George Lucas explained to a Tunisian newspaper in more recent times, "I found Tunisia the ideal country for filming: beautiful countryside, unique architecture and a very high level of technical sophistication."

Not even Lucas’s penchant for changing a scene after the fact could embellish Tunisia’s natural allure. Dubbed “the jewel of the Mediterranean” (jostling for the crown alongside Croatia and Cyprus), the ideal climate of the North-African coastal region – not to mention its strange coalescence of Islamic culture with a very European outlook on hospitality – makes for an accessible destination.

Scottish city dwellers will have seen the ubiquitous ad campaign scrawled down the side of double-deckers since the start of 2010; so why Tunisia now? Well, with a wealth of attractive historical sites and a coastline boasting over 800 miles of beach to explore, Tunisia has become a tantalising – and affordable – option for backpackers and budget holidaymakers alike as direct flights to Monastir and Tunis have opened up in Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen over the last year. Sun-chasers might want to put that bottle of perma-tan away; the Republic's autumn months yield ample rays to replenish the soul.

Incidentally, if a few days of beach sand isn’t enough to temper that pilgrimage to Tatooine and the Mos Eisley Cantina, try trekking a little further inland to the small town of Matmata where you can even stay at Luke Skywalker’s gaff – AKA the Sidi Driss Hotel — costing the equivalent of £12 per night. A daily coach service runs from Tunis (via Sousse).

But this itinerary was about the coast…

Day One

09.00 Roughly 9 miles from Tunisia’s capital, Tunis, we visit the coasts of the ancient city of Carthage, most notably the well-preserved excavations around Carthage Acropolis – the birthplace of Hannibal – which still clearly shows the lasting damage inflicted by the Roman Empire during the Punic Wars. The cypresses lining the surrounding streets and the turquoise-tinted sea lend the area a sense of calm despite the evidence left behind by its turbulent history.  

11.30 The next port of call is Sidi Bou Said – a picturesque, strictly blue and white village – perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis. Carpeted shisha cafes are popular in the area, and comfortable traditional courtyard houses make for affordable off-season lodgings. Jalebi – a sweet, melt-in-the-mouth, pretzel shaped delicacy – comes recommended as a snack, available from local bakeries and street vendors.  

14.30 We transfer to Tunis and visit the working market place which is a UNESCO world heritage site in the present day. Eyes to the floor, it’s a haggler’s delight and a battle through the medina, to which there are two distinct sides. One entrance is purely a tourist trap littered with jewels and curios while another is relatively hassle free and geared more towards locals, lined with stalls selling clothes and fresh produce. It’s also worth noting the comparatively cosmopolitan feel of Tunis versus the more remote family enclosures littered around the northern region of the republic, not to mention its close proximity to ample amenities, making for a comfortable self-catered stay. The catacombs in the south west of the city are also said to be worth a look, but that’s not on the cards for us today.

19.30 For dinner and an overnight stay we retreat to the fairly flashy Mövenpick Hotel in the centre of lively Sousse (there’s a tenner-a-night hostel down the street we’ll, er, need to investigate next time). Like many Tunisian hotels and restaurants, European cuisine is at the heart of the menu. Our charming host from the National Tourist Office woos us with tales of interpreting for Sean Connery and introduces the party to a local drink called “Boukha.”

Day Two

09.00 A little tender the morning after, we saunter along the road towards Sousse’s town centre on the hunt for some approximation of a breakfast burrito; a western saloon with a picture of Clint Eastwood across the front looks like a possibility but some pidgin French directed at the guy at the till fails to breach the language barrier. A word to the wise; don’t stray far from the more Westernised conclaves of the resorts without a phrasebook.  

13.00 With dreams of pastry-based goods in ruins, we take a short drive to Port El Kantaoui for lunch – read: a tasty lamb Chorba soup – at La Daurade restaurant, which has a stunning seaside view that falls under the watchful eye of Poseidon himself. A range of leisure facilities, including the prestigious El Kantaoui Golf Course are in close proximity in this particularly green neck of the land. For those more inclined to engage with the local culture, a walk through the Bedouin villages makes for a worthwhile excursion.

16.30 Nearby Monastir is characterised by its fortified Ribat (or fort), constructed in the ninth century. Initially intended as a means of warding off seafaring invaders, the Ribat has found a new lease of life as a Roman museum and film set in latter years, doubling as Jerusalem in Life of Brian. We take a trip next door to the mausoleum which contains first president Habib Bourguiba – the leader of Tunisia’s struggle for independence – a gallery, and various artefacts collected from his time in office.

18.30 Returning to Sousse for dinner and an overnight stay back at the Mövenpick, we recline in the neighbouring restaurant/club for a taste of the nightlife. Euro house pumps through the snug lounges and the DJ doesn’t have any Tribe Called Quest, but we’re assured there are many popular clubbing options in town (and various Ministry of Sound-friendly figures regularly paying visit, ye club heads). Boukha, by the way, in its Judeo-arab dialect simply means “alcohol spirit” (N.B. these guys named their national paper La Presse). Based on figs, it’s popularly consumed as an aperitif or digestive. Suffice it to say, a cheeky bottle travels home in the duty free bag. Menthol shisha? Not so appealing.

Day Three

09.00 We leave for Hammamet, stopping to visit the capital’s busy craft centre of Nabeul – full of embroidery and pottery, if that’s your caper – to load up on souvenirs and take in a bit of theatre where folk bounce around in traditional attire with an array of pottery firmly balanced on their skull. The thriving agriculture lends Nabeul a vibrant feel repeatedly found throughout the Hammamet region.   

13.00 Lunch in Yasmine Hammamet – a relatively new tourist development just a few miles from Hammamet itself. Its popularity as a family destination ensures that last minute bookings are virtually impossible to come by during the peak season. One such resort is the Magic Life Hotel, which counts a private beach, gyms, five-a-side courts, windsurfing gear and first class restaurants boasting multi-cultural cuisine in its all-inclusive package. The place bustles with UK, French and German tourists when we arrive and it’s a friendly, communal experience. There’s a twisted Butlins vibe where folk limbo dance dressed as drag Baron Samedi in the twilight hours, but there’s no harm in that.

21.00 We move on to an open air café in downtown Hammamet (neighbouring a club called Oasis – the largest in Africa, unless you set up a PA in the Congo) which becomes an afterhours hangout with a dancefloor. The Boukha flows as our charismatic guide pulls another chapter from his storybook and tells us how he once mediated a rug deal (a rug deal) for Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour – another of Tunisia’s high profile frequenters.

Hopes of a spontaneous bandaoke performance of Shine On You Crazy Diamond on our last night are dashed by the arrival of a Bollywood queen in between more sporadic bursts of Euro house, which is par for the course. It’s been relaxing, it’s been euphoric, and it’s been pretty weird. But I’ll be back, Tunisia.