The Skinny guide to Stockbridge & Canonmills

This article has been updated for the The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh 2023, available now at venues across Scotland. Inside, you'll find summaries of the city's different neighbourhoods, our recommendations on what to do, and deep-dives into the history and community that define Edinburgh.

At the northern edge of the New Town, linked by the Water of Leith, lie Stockbridge and Canonmills. These historic residential areas have a village feel and scenic streets that are manna for influencers. Head here for bougie shops, independent bars, excellent ice cream and an astounding number of charity shops. Plus the Stockbridge Market every Sunday boasts the city’s largest paella.

Food & drink in Stockbridge & Canonmills

You don’t have to look far to find baked goods in Stockbridge or Canonmills. Walk along StockyB’s main road (Deanhaugh St leading on Raeburn Place) and try any door, they will likely be ready to serve you coffee and cake. Favourites include The Pastry Section (86 Raeburn Pl), French patisserie La Barantine (27b Raeburn Pl), Swedish-style Soderberg (3 Deanhaugh St), family-run Italian joint Cafe Gallo (96 Raeburn Pl) for savoury snacks and Twelve Triangles (9 Comely Bank Rd) for artisanal fresh bread and pastries. Find coffee at Fortitude (66 Hamilton Pl) or Artisan Roast (100a Raeburn Pl). In Canonmills, head to The Bearded Baker (46 Rodney St) for doughnuts and buns, Hata (5 Rodney St) for excellent cake or newcomer Singapore Coffee House (5 Canonmills). If you’re venturing towards Inverleith, Krem Karamel (68 Inverleith Row) has a much-storied Basque-style cheesecake. Newly-opened Joelato (31 N W Circus Place) is a welcome addition to the city’s burgeoning artisanal ice cream scene.

For more of a sit-down meal, try The Pantry (1 NW Circus Pl) for brunch, Nok’s Kitchen (8 Gloucester St) for Thai food, Kenji Sushi (24 Deanhaugh St), Earls Burger Co. (74 Raeburn Pl), Kim’s Bulgogi (11 St Stephen St) for Korean or Novapizza (42 Howe St) for the vegans. Keep going along Raeburn Place and you will find the Neighbourgood Market, serving up a variety of Scotland's finest street food on a cricket pitch until 23 July.

Soderberg. Credit: Dario Rodrigues

The area is also home to many pubs in their purest form. On St Stephen St, The Antiquary (72 St Stephen St), aka the Tic, is a basement pub of the real ale variety while The Bailie (2 St Stephen St) is an unreconstructed boozer. At the other end, St Vincent (11 St Vincent St) offers dark and cosy vibes – they’ve recently added a load of flower garlands to the front, a decision perhaps not unconnected to its position on the edge of Edinburgh’s most Instagrammed street (™), Circus Lane. Over towards Canonmills, Clark’s Bar (142 Dundas St) has a traditional interior and craft beer, while One Canon (1 Canonmills) is an airy corner bar with a focus on local breweries, currently serving pizza.

Offering up an altogether different vibe is Skua (49 St Stephen St), the latest venture from the team behind newly Michelin-starred Heron. Intimate, small seasonal plates, innovative cocktails, hospitality at its finest. For cheese, fine wines and antipasti, head to Smith & Gertrude (26 Hamilton Pl) or Italian-run Bacco (136 Dundas St). Back on St Stephen Street, basement bar The Last Word Saloon (44 St Stephen St) serves a sophisticated take on classic cocktails.

Things to do in Stockbridge & Canonmills

The Water of Leith is a beautiful wooded route linking Stockbridge and Canonmills with the West End and Leith. Look out for kingfishers, otters and Anthony Gormley statues on the way. The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (Arboretum Pl) is a place for scientific study and conservation, but also a beautiful free-to-enter garden, home to some very engaging squirrels and assorted waterfowl. For visual arts, Dissenter Space (57 Henderson Row) is a collaborative work presenting a radical series of talks, events and projects in a former office block. WASPS Patriothall is an artists' studio complex with a regular programme of exhibitions. 

Indie shops in Stockbridge & Canonmills

Cheese lovers, check out I.J. Mellis (6 Bakers Pl) or George Mewes (3 Dean Park St). For drinks, visit Vino (26 NW Circus Pl) or Winekraft (6 Brandon Ter) in Canonmills. The Beerhive (24 Rodney St) is a much-loved beer and wine shop stocked with interesting local and international cans. An Independent Zebra (88 Raeburn Pl) sells work by local small design businesses. On St Stephen St, book lovers should check out Golden Hare (no. 68) or Ginger and Pickles (no. 51) for kids, while vinyl lovers can explore Voxbox Music (no. 21).