The Skinny guide to Govan, Kinning Park, Cessnock & the Gorbals

Government investment of close to £1 billion has transformed the southern Clyde waterfront area into a slick media hub. When the BBC opened its Scottish headquarters on the south bank of the river in 2007, it didn't take long for big-money companies to line up alongside it. The Quayside today plays host to casinos, cinemas, restaurants and high-rise luxury chain hotels. Behind the shininess of the riverfront, however, these are still working-class parts of town. Immigrant communities from across Europe and the Middle East have settled here, and continue to do so. The shops, cafes, barbers, bars and restaurants reflect that multiculturalism. In many ways, this area of town paints a distinct picture of modern Glasgow. A heartening mix of the city’s industrial past and its ambitious future.

Go outdoors
There aren't many green spaces in the area. It is, after all, the city’s industrial heartland. A walk or bike ride along the river, however, offers a whistle-stop tour of some of Glasgow’s most iconic buildings and structures, from Glasgow Science Centre and Govan Parish Church to Glasgow University, the Finnieston Crane and the SEC across the water (as well as the squinty bridge across it).

For a spooky summer walk, consider ducking in under the large stone archway of the Gorbals Southern Necropolis (Caledonia Rd). A nod to the area’s grim history, this graveyard (founded in 1840) is the final resting place for over 250,000 Gorbals inhabitants. It is worth seeking out the famous White Lady monument. Just be sure not to walk around her ghostly statue three times or – legend has it – she will turn your body to stone.

Deeper south is Bellahouston Park – a terrific spot for running, cycling and picnics, it even has a dry ski slope and hosts concerts in the summer. Within the park sits the unique House for an Art Lover. Built in the 1990s, based on 1901 notes left behind by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the large white mansion hosts exhibitions, weddings and is in some ways a curiously compromised example of the British Art Nouveau style. If you're looking for a more authentic Mackintosh fix, stroll past the imposing Scotland Street School (225 Scotland St) for a glimpse at its striking exterior; the sandstone Victorian school building is a wonderful example of Mackintosh’s style.

Food and drink
A fun foodie highlight is Govan’s The Big Feed (249-325 Govan Rd). This weekly street food festival takes place in a large warehouse on Govan Road, where a changing rotation of food trucks from across the country park up and get cooking. With a fully-stocked bar, live music, arcade games and so much good food to try, it's easy to spend hours here.

The newest addition to the Cessnock area is Kitchen Glasgow (11 North Gower St), a popular bakery serving delicate patisserie favourites, breakfast options, breads and pizzas. While around the corner the city's best Lebanese food can be found in the heaving plates of mezze at Beirut Star (450 Paisley Rd W). Similarly high quality, low price food can be found near the Glasgow Mosque in the Gorbals in the form of highly rated Afghan food at Namak Mandi (17-23 Bridge St), Middle Eastern cuisine in Palmtree Kitchen (22 Bridge St) and sweets from Turkey in Istanbul Cakes and Baklawas (63 Bridge St).

Nearby, Babylon Supermarket (3-5 Commerce St) is a large supermarket well stocked with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and even an in-house bakery. Aladdin’s (45 Commerce St) is similarly good for hard-to-find ingredients.

For coffee in Cessnock, check out the sustainable focused The Good Coffee Cartel (12 Cornwall St) cafe and on-site roastery, while in the Gorbals, vegan joint Zilch Bakery & Deli (124 Norfolk St) serve up a frankly astounding range of plant-based food, from NY cheesecake to charcuterie.

This part of town also does a roaring trade in good old-fashioned pubs. Home to two of the city’s very best: The Laurieston (58 Bridge St) and The Old Toll Bar (1 Paisley Rd W). The former is a Glasgow city icon, appearing in pop art prints, photography exhibitions and even a Fratellis music video, and The Old Toll Bar dates back to the 1800s. Refurbished in 2017, the bones of the place remain the same, now with added cocktails and comedy nights.

Things to do
Glasgow Science Centre (50 Pacific Quay) is an immersive educational experience for all the family, with its cheerful interactive exhibits in a futuristic architectural space. If you're feeling brave, visit Ibrox Stadium (150 Edmiston Dr); one of the oldest football stadiums in Europe (built in 1874), it's home to Glasgow Rangers. During the off-season in the summer, daily stadium tours are available.

The area is bookended by the exquisite Govan Old Parish Church (866 Govan Rd). Free to the public, the site has been home to a church since the 6th century and houses the famous Norse carved Govan stones, dating back to 870AD.

For a more energetic day, a large section of repurposed warehouses, a short distance from Kinning Park tube station, host a number of active pursuits. Choose from roller rinks (Roller Stop CIC, 139 Middlesex St), crazy golf (Fore Play, 124 Portman St) or pilates studios (The Yoga & Pilates Place, 32 Portman St).