Berlin again
Sipping a Becks by the railway tracks on Warschauer Strae watching the sun set, it’s hard to imagine Berlin divided in two. In Friedrichschain, an up and coming quarter in the former East, only a few aspects recall the former communist past: the relics of the Stalinesque apartment blocks; the East Side Gallery – what remains of the wall - and the Ampelmann, the industrial traffic light ‘red man’ and ‘green man’, now a popular tourist symbol of the GDR. These are blended with graffiti coated derelict buildings, avant-garde galleries as well as vibrant bars and clubs.
Our hotel ‘Upstalsboom Friedrichschain’, Gubener Strae 42, offered us a free upgrade on arrival and this combined with a breakfast buffet fit for a King as well as a five minute walk to the S-Bahn (suburban train) meant we gave it a resounding thumbs up. Friedrichschain proved more than credible for a nights entertainment. Simon Dach Strae is lined with restaurants cum bars, with Café 100 Wasser providing excellent food and Himmerlreich plenty of beers. Beach bar Yaam – an Afro-Caribbean venue on the banks of the Spree, proper sand and all – was great for alfresco afternoon drinking on reclining beach chairs and hammocks.
In terms of food, be prepared to eat for three – Germans don’t skimp on their portions – and if you’re vegetarian then you’ve came to the wrong country. For traditional snacks Bratwurst and Currywurst sold at the ubiquitous fast food stands (Imbie) are a must. Currywurst emerged in the days of scarcity and the need to be creative with leftovers following World War II. Essentially a fried sausage in curried tomato and paprika sauce it remains unchanged and popular as ever. The large Turkish contingent ensures that the donner kebab is also especially good. For a taste of the bourgeois visit an upmarket Konditorei (essentially a cake shop) which is in a category all of its own. Indulge in the German tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen, choosing in most cases from a wide selection of homemade cakes. The Operncafe on Unter den Linden is opulent and offers an outdoor terrace to boot.
Grandiose architecture and the most interesting history in modern Europe make sightseeing a task best embarked on by foot and for the most part free. Obvious places to check out include the Brandenburg Tor (Gate) which was obscured by the wall and in no man’s land for 30 odd years, becoming the location of riotous celebration when the wall finally came down. Street performers showing off their moves perform close by. The Reichstag (Parliament) received a pounding from the Allies during the War but has now been restored to former glory, including a glass domed top designed by Norman Foster. The Siegessäule (victory column) is in the heart of the city’s Tiergarten. It can be climbed to dizzying heights which provide panoramic views of the city including Strae des 17.Juni all the way to the Brandenburg Gate. It has witnessed the closing party of the Love Parade and also staged President Obama’s speech in July of last year, as well as being moved from its previous location in front of the Reichstag by the Nazis. It could tell some stories.
For more contemporary construction you can’t miss the TV Tower in Alexander Platz (also climbable if you’re feeling brave ... I wasn’t) which also has a revolving restaurant. And the Postdamer Platz, formerly a bleak empty square is now full of glass and steel with the Sony Centre and Filmhaus at its heart. Essentially, it’s a shopping centre, albeit a pretty cool one.
Berlin is a city in a constant state of reconstruction. Just as shiny new apartments and offices go up old disused warehouses find new uses. It has a creative vibe and appears a natural home for cutting edge art and design. It’s a party destination in its own right and remains relatively easy on the wallet (unlike some other Europe destinations – not thinking of anywhere in particular gay Paris). My best advice is go explore.