Urban Angel

Feature by R. J. Thomson | 14 Aug 2006

A popular option at Urban Angel, encouraged by the staff, is to share a selection of tapas as a starter. Our selection included lime and coriander hummus, a rich black tapenade, char-grilled artichoke and tomato concasse. It was all extremely tasty and each selection was perfectly proportioned to stand alone. It is a pleasure to eat somewhere as reasonably priced as Urban Angel and to be instantly reassured not only of the quality of the ingredients but of the thought that has gone into their combination. There is a reassuring Britishness to the way in which courses are neatly structured, that, though it prevents flavours from truly taking off, is brought off with a sharp-edged common-sense: sautéed figs were a fine compliment to confit of duck, and capers added a welcome edge to smoked salmon risotto. [R. J. Thomson]