Tony's Table

Tony’s Table is Oloroso Chef Tony Singh’s new 'value driven' enterprise. Having succeeded in the Edinburgh restaurant scene for 15 years we can assume that Tony knows what he’s doing. On only its third Saturday open his Table was operating smoothly, and pedigree shows through with gentlemen’s club style chairs and Wedgewood cutlery. Clearly some effort has been made to keep things relaxed; the staff are vivacious, casually dressed twenty-somethings and the tables are clad in colourful textured leather which soothes formality.

Early tweaks have already taken place - the lavish elements of the online menu have disappeared but a more basic version is still well-worded and appealing. A geographic scattering of global cuisine is available and we began in Britain with 'Bones' – a simple, satisfying starter of roasted beef bones complete with their unctuous marrow, a shard of toast, and a salsa verde variant on the side. The southern European offering of baked chorizo with taleggio and spring onions couldn’t keep up, the over-thin chorizo looked like it had been bought ready sliced. This hit and miss nature of the meal continued with the mains: a special of lemon sole served with a cream sauce and two small puff pastry crescents was well cooked but the vegetable accompaniments did not sit happily – 'Mediterranean vegetables' turned out to be plain carrots and 'crushed potatoes with salsa verde' came uncrushed with but a few green flecks. No such problem with the desserts - both orange polenta cake with ice cream and homemade yoghurt with winter fruits and biscotti left quite an impression, and with an earthy espresso the meal was rounded off admirably.

Tony provides good value – you can get a bottle of wine for £10 and three courses are £20, but in so doing he is wading into a crowded market. Success is difficult to predict, but the eponymous ‘big name’ at the helm will certainly help.

3 courses for two with wine £58.