The Roseleaf

Inside: Despite being located in the much trumpeted regeneration zone of the Shore, this pub has avoided the worst excesses of that legalised vandalism known as gentrification and kept its original Victorian fittings. A square bar in the middle divides the comfortable, quirky main public bar from the tables and chairs of the dining room. No tellies, puggies or bells and whistles of any kind disturb the atmosphere which makes for that elusive fabled phenomenon of 'The Quiet Pint'.

Clientele: In its previous incarnation as the Black Swan it was (by dint of its location in the middle of Edinburgh's erstwhile street-walking 'tolerance zone') frequented in the main by working girls, their clients, and people who generally prefer not to get their drugs from the chemist. Now, while not exactly being a yuppified West End style ponceteria the clientele are (slightly) more respectable but retain a certain boho edge. It is Leith after all. Nae neds or that tho.

Magic moment: Eggs Benedict from the top notch kitchen, a cool pint, a smile from the waitress and watching your hangover disappear over the horizon into the Firth of Forth.

Atmosphere: Clubbable. As it's a bit off the beaten track, anybody that's there has made an effort, and the punters are almost familial as they and they alone (for the time being at least) know about this hidden gem.

Opener: How much for a tenner bag?