Sear's Pizza, Edinburgh / Anxious Pete's, Glasgow
A tale of two pizza shops, as we visit new by-the-slice spaces at both ends of the M8 – Sear's new spot in Marchmont, Edinburgh, and Anxious Pete's at the Barras in Glasgow
Pizza by the slice – it’s having a bit of a moment. Call it a trend, call it a recession indicator, but it does seem like slice shops are popping up all over the place. Maybe we’ve just been very busy in the last few months and more in the market for food you can eat while sprinting – who’s to say? Anyway, Sear’s have been on the slice scene in Glasgow’s West End for a few years, and now they’re in equally leafy surroundings in Edinburgh's Marchmont. Their new spot is a dainty, dinky little shop that seems to have very neatly parallel-parked rather than crash-landed, with ‘well-worn’ signwriting on the external wall and a chunky neon in the window.
Inside, it’s a charming facsimile of what we imagine a New York pizza shop might look like: we’re talking cool signwriting, more neons, brick-effect panelling, and a whole bunch of framed portraits. Once we stop focusing on the walls, there’s a lovely wooden booth in the window and a big counter at the back filled with pizzas. It’s sweet, almost quaint, which might be down to the fact that it’s all Victorian tenements and massive hedges outside, rather than skyscrapers and fellas who are walkin’ here, buddy.
As connoisseurs of the form, we’d say that Sear’s have something of a medium crust – there’s a bit of rise and puff but with a good crunch on the bottom, so there’s a nice light and shade thing going on. The Margarita (£3) is an extremely solid slice of pizza – plenty of cheese, and a tangy, almost jammy tomato sauce that is worryingly moreish.
As for the Pepperoni (£3.50), it’s absolutely loaded with lots of little slices of the stuff. We’re talking 100% coverage, no bite left behind; it looks almost exactly like the iPhone emoji for ‘pizza’ came to life then headed straight to Marchmont. And it tastes great – not too spicy, and a good balance between the meat, cheese and sauce. It’s delicious, it’s consistent, it pairs very well with a window seat and liberal sprinklings from the oregano dispenser.
Sear’s, then, is a great pitstop; a place to spend ten minutes having an on-the-run lunch and living out your NYC fantasy within walking distance of the park. We reckon you’ll really like it. If not, the good news is that other by-the-slice pizza is available.
Sear's Pizza, 27A Marchmont Rd, Edinburgh, EH9 1HY; Wed-Sun, midday-9pm
Pizza by the slice – it’s having a bit of a moment, and in These Trying Times, it makes sense. Pizzerias get more bang for their buck and the chance to run a slightly shorter menu, punters get an extremely quick and fresh bite to eat that hits the sweet spot of ‘tasty treat that won’t leave you bankrupt’. Anxious Pete’s is the new spot from the folk behind the excellent Barras pizza place The Pizza Cult, and it’s right in the heart of the market action. It is also, as a glass-fronted unit that’s only just opened, completely chamelonic. It blends right in (we walked past it twice and only stopped when we saw someone pass with a pizza box).
Inside, it’s an extremely ‘real’ look at what a New York pizza shop might be like. There’s a front section with a bench and a checkerboard floor, a counter loaded with pizzas, and a steady flow of punters [since sending this to print, they have since added more chairs and tables; life moves fast round here, etc etc]. Behind that counter, it’s a factory-esque void with a prep station, a two-deck pizza oven, and chefs getting through a power of work in a fog of what we assume is heat, smoke and flour. The staff are fanning themselves with paper plates, the Barras is in full swing outside, and it smells amazing in here.
Anxious Pete’s are rocking thin, blistery crusts with big puffy edges and middles that need to be folded or they will get away from you. The white slice (£3.50) is a bit like the fanciest piece of cheese on toast you’ve ever had. Plenty of mozzarella, a sprinkle of parmesan, a whole load of garlic and some fresh rosemary; it’s a tangy, stringy treat.
As for the Pepperoni (£4), it’s an outrageous bit of business. For starters, it’s the size of a small tea towel. It’s topped with fresh basil and loaded up with parmesan, and while the pepperoni isn’t all over the slice, it makes its extremely savoury presence felt throughout. Smoky, spicy, gooey and crispy, this is a genuinely brilliant slice of pizza. Do we burn our mouth trying to eat it too fast while leaning against the lamppost outside? Of course we do.
Anxious Pete’s is serving up some incredible pizza and focusing almost solely on that. Grab a slice, find a perch, scarf it down, then head back for another. We think it’s brilliant, and reckon you will too. If not, well, other by-the-slice pizza is available.
Anxious Pete's, 25 Kent St, Glasgow, G40 2SR; Thu 4-9pm, Fri-Sun midday-9pm