Redwood

Tucked into a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it, cosy basement space in lovely, lovely Stockbridge, Redwood offers a novel take on fusion food. Owner / chef Annette Sprague takes the cream of seasonal Scottish produce and throws a real curveball, cooking it up with vibrant, innovative Californian twists. The scarlet den of Redwood's dining room is small but perfectly formed; with only 22 covers it has a pleasantly informal, dinner party vibe. The laidback, unfussy atmosphere is mirrored in the set menu which reassuringly offers just three choices per course (never trust a kitchen that churns out green Thai curry, Lancashire hotpot, risotto et al).

That American-Caledonian, healthy-hearty influence is at play right from the start, thanks to Brandonrost hot smoked salmon with a light avocado mousse and goats cheese bound with nectarine, spiced pecan and orange blossom dressing in a frankly awesome mound of a first course. Mains of seabass and meltingly-marinated leg of lamb are paired up with lentils, lemon gremolata and saffron broth and coriander-mint pesto, chickpeas and chilli respectively; over the table, the veggie addition to our threesome wolfed down his cauliflower and halloumi fritters with lime yoghurt dressing so quickly it was a wonder the plate survived. Stomachs suitably stretched, we had to say yes to pud, where the vivid creativity meets spoon-licking contentment continued with rhurbarb and blackberry tart with a deliciously herby basil semi-freddo and the best slice of anything I’ve had all year – if pecan cake with coconut cream filling, chocolate glaze and caramel sauce doesn’t make you feel glad to be alive, then you’re a lost cause.

A brief wine list is on offer, but most punters take advantage of the BYOB with nominal corkage to continue the homely feel. All in all, it’s enough to keep you a shiny, happy person – even as you walk home through the harr.  [Ruth Marsh]