No. Sixteen

Whereas once upon a time, pre-economic downturn, No. Sixteen enjoyed a thoroughly enviable locale in the bustling West End, it now sits on a rather sad and quiet end of Byres Road. The enthusiastic, shiny-eyed restaurants and bars that once surronded it are now empty shells and whitewashed windows, stark reminders of how hard it is to make dreams a viable reality.

Fortunately, No Sixteen has not only weathered the storm but is in apparent rude health, with its bright interior, smiling faces and menu that rides the seasonal, locally sourced zeitgeist.

The slow-cooked ox cheek for starter came resting atop a herb mash, trying not to melt into its own rich, red wine sauce – fantastically simple but excellently realised.

Main course was a fillet of coley with clams and mussels in a chorizo cassoulet. Fish and baked beans? Not quite – very reasonably sized portions, well cooked beans, and snappingly-fresh shellfish with a nice tomato punch. The coley was a tad overdone considering the wait but it certainly didn’t compromise the dish.

Dessert produced the only bum note of the meal: a berry and black cherry risotto failed to lift itself above cold school rice pudding with jam stirred through despite its best intentions.

All told, considering the price, No. Sixteen provides very reasonable fare and its heart is very definitely in the right place. Look for everyone’s favourite, regular go-to restaurant in the same little nook long after the next recession. [Chris Coulter]