Mama San

The most generous sushi platefuls you'll find in the city, for little more than the change in your back pocket

Venue Review by Ruth Marsh | 05 Feb 2008
There's been some serious refurb-ing going on in the basement bar of St Jude's Hotel. With an achingly hip mural, dim lighting just the right side of murky and hearty tumblers of expertly-mixed G & Ts, the overall feel of Mama San is a louche drinking den par excellence.

For those not just soaking up the atmosphere (and the spirits), there's a vast laminated menu of pan-Asian classics ranging from sushi to salads by way of grills and tempura, that encourages all the giddy overindulgence of Woolie's pick 'n mix.

In less confident hands, such an expansive choice would run the risk of turning convoluted. But thanks to enthusiastic, knowledgeable staff happy to navigate you through your choices and three separate kitchens under the auspices of specialist chefs from Thailand, China and Japan, the dishes that arrive are consistently delicious, bursting with clear, deep flavours.

Given the season, we veered towards the heartier offerings and were rewarded with warming glows, dancing tongues and oh-so-full tummies. Six fat rolls of tuna maki made up the most generous sushi platefuls you'll find in the city, for little more than the change in your back pocket, whilst a steaming wicker basket was home to a bundle of salt n pepper squid, all tender tubes and tentacles.

Moving on to mains, a classic Pad Thai and a rich Malaysian curry, its lime, mustard and coconut sauce moreishly absorbed by the accompanying avalanche of prawn tempura, continued with the hearty but vibrant theme.

A shared pudding of house-made pomegranate sorbet, liberally doused with lychee liqueur, melted together for a gratifyingly boozy end to the meal.
Smooth but eclectic, Mama San is a welcome addition to Bath Street's bar mile.
190 Bath Street, Glasgow
0141 333 9832
Dinner for two with drinks £45
http://www.mama-san.co.uk