Gandolfi Fish Review

Part of the burgeoning Gandolfi empire, Gandolfi Fish offers a sophisticated, versatile space in which to indulge all your fishy fantasies. Dark leather booths and bar stools implore you to hunker down and start necking back oysters on the rocks (available singly or by the half dozen), whilst the packed but chilled out restaurant space is just the ticket for a full-on Scottish shellfish blow-out.

Away from the crustaceans, I started with the unctuous braised squid, melting into a slab of black pud and peppered with the welcome crunch of fresh broad beans - a perfect combination that resulted in borderline plate-licking. Mains were the house fishcakes, fat hockey pucks packed with crab and salmon and doused in a sorrel sauce, and a generous salmon fillet with snappy young asparagus. Desserts were welcomingly straight to the point, with a sliver of ultra rich chocolate tart cut through with cr'me fraiche and a white chocolate and frozen strawberry terrine. Those who don't live the life aquatic may feel a little unwelcome (a steak and a salad are your only options), but Gandolfi Fish is an unapologetically passionate celebration of one of Scotland's most precious riches. [Ruth Marsh]