Duck's at Le Marché Noir

The excitement of one's first restaurant review can fade rather fast when it coincides with the dregs of a two-day hangover. I was filled with dread at the prospect of hauling my wretched, bedraggled self into an upmarket establishment and attempting to blend in. But Duck's at Le Marché Noir is a fairly understated sort of place, with minimal décor (other than lots of ducks) and a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.

The food didn't mess with my delicate condition; in fact a starter of seared scallops with white onion puree and sherry caramel was just the thing to perk me up, along with a glass of Claude Val Rose. My companion's 'cannelloni' of courgette, ricotta, pine kernels and basil, pea puree, shoots and truffle oil was equally impressive, as was his main of roast pork fillet, braised pork cheeks, celeriac puree, creamed cannelini beans and grain mustard. The vegetarian main – plum tomato tart with glazed goat's cheese and radish salad – was nice enough, but could perhaps do with something a little extra if it's to become as noteworthy as the other dishes. Dessert, however, was another memorable experience: orange muscat poached rhubarb with poached meringue, versus white chocolate and lavender parfait. Duck's is pricey, but with friendly service and exciting food, it's worth treating yourself, even if you're under the weather. [Nine]