Chez Pierre

Chez Pierre, on Edinburgh's Eyre Place, is an unimposing sort of place. Light and modern without a hint of twee save for the Christmas decorations - but then that's the point of those. We sit, and I spot Pierre Levicky himself, owner and proprietor, plastered all over the placemats to advertise his new book. Granted, the man should have a presence in his eponymous restaurant, but this seems like something you'd expect to suffer in McDonalds. The book itself is Cooking Life - part a slightly stream-of-consciousness autobiography charting the infamous rise and fall of his bistro chain Pierre Victoire and part an approachable, have-a-go recipe collection of rustic French staples. It's a ripping, cheerily confessional read, even if it smacks a little of a man eager to nosy himself into the celebrity chef canon. Back in Chez Pierre, distraction from the publicity machine arrives when a waiter approaches with a 'welcome appetiser': shrimp in batter with a chilli dipping sauce.

And we're off! An asparagus starter with poached egg and soldiers lacks flavour, but then, asparagus is long out of season. The deep fried squid in coats of crisp batter is a hit on both side of the table. The garlic mayonnaise, an excellent compliment. Both mains arrive in kingly portions. My lamb shank and potato gratin cannot be faulted - gloopy and tender, it's the sort of rich fare the French do best. The baked cod is a little more friendly on the arteries, with squid, mussels and potato, all fresh and flavoursome. Dessert, a dark chocolate roulade, is light and fluffy as a cloud and the raspberries are a tangy accompaniment. Again though, the addition of strawberries, so far out of season, is a lazy touch. Such quibbles, and the self marketing, leave an impression that Chez Pierre exists to line the pockets of Mr Levicky, rather than being a labour of love. More attention to detail could make it something lovely.