Bo'Vine Meat and Wines

Feature by Ruth Marsh | 26 Jul 2010

The fierce debate as to whether the name for Glasgow’s new specialist steakhouse was hilarious or naff had certainly made us hungry. Thankfully, Bo’Vine’s menu consists entirely of no-nonsense items you just want to eat. Game pie with Mull cheddar, fish pie, truffled macaroni cheese – it scores a big tick for comfort grub with a strong local bent.

To start, smoked salmon and quails eggs on soda bread and duck terrine were very generously, if a little artlessly, piled onto the plate. The smoked salmon was perhaps a little flabby but the intense meatiness of the terrine was given a lift by a spicy fruit chutney and crunchy, salty capers.
For the mains we had to go the way of the grill – rare sirloin for me and a medium T-bone off the specials for my other half. Again, there was no skimping on portions – these were two big chunks of perfectly-cooked cow that arrived.

The extras didn’t let the side down either, with fat, handcut chips arriving in a cute little mini-fryer bucket; ‘seasonal greens’ were actually green beans, a misnomer but a crunchy, moreish one at that. Keeping with the gluttony theme, we shared a deconstructed Black Forest gateau – discs of slightly dry chocolate sponge interspersed with whipped cream and severely boozy cherries – a more even dispersal of the hard stuff may have helped it out. Despite only opening a few weeks ago, the comfy but dimly lit restaurant was buzzing with post-work suits, dating couples and groups of students giddily blowing their weekly food budget on a 9oz fillet. Its populist, feelgood menu should ensure it remains a favourite.

Dinner for two around £55 excluding drinks 385 Byres Road, Glasgow G12 8AU Tel: 0141 341 6540

http://www.bovinerestaurant.com