Bar Dani, Glasgow / Masala Wheels, The Keelson, Edinburgh
Take your pick from Iberian treats in Finnieston, excellent South Indian food from a trailer in Gorgie, and some extremely good chicken in Leith
At this time of year, with so much to do and the usual amount of time in which to do it, it’s important to approach things with intent. Know what you’re trying to do, folks! Bar Dani, the new Finnieston spot from the team at the Kelvingrove Cafe, meets that challenge head-on. It’s a lovely space that balances its super-modern brushed concrete bar with some delightful tiles and enormous windows.
Behind that bar, it’s a Basque-inspired array of nibbles and drinks ideal for a quick Iberian pitstop – the Dani Burger (£9) comes as a pair of high-powered and supremely flavourful sliders, loaded with mustard and at least two kinds of cheese, with an impressive amount of char. The Smoked White Beans (£7.50) are simple but extremely effective: a white bean puree topped with crispy roasted chickpeas, charred greens and beans, and topped with thick shards of Basque cheese. It’s fantastic, it’s flavourful, it takes ingredients that you probably have in the cupboard and combines them much more effectively than you would back at home. Great dishes, lovely staff, and a cracking drinks list with some Spanish hits (offer us a Vermouth on the rocks for a fiver and we’ll take it ten times out of ten), Bar Dani have successfully replicated the freewheeling vibe of the very best pintxo and tapas bars. Which is to say, we went in, had two drinks and a few nibbles, and were out the door in 50 minutes. Great success.
Some places try to lure you with a really specific vibe and feel, and some just catch your nose on the wind. Masala Wheels is one of a new wave of excellent South Indian venues in the west of Edinburgh, but the Gorgie Road food truck has had a rough few months. Their original van burned down in February in a suspected arson attack, so it’s great to see them back up and running. Confronting that kind of hardship and coming out the other side is genuinely heartwarming; big round of applause from us, and given the steady stream of visitors, we’re not the only ones who are glad to see them back. A second big round of applause goes to our Masala Dosa (£5.99), with its supremely crispy edges and perfect golden brown hue. It’s stuffed with nicely spiced potatoes and paired with a tremendous pair of chutneys so you can dip and chomp to your heart’s content. As dosas go, this isn’t the largest (there’s only so much space to spread the batter when you’re working in a trailer) but it is impressively substantial – a filling, handmade and delicious meal for under £6 is not to be sniffed at. A big thumbs up from us.

The Keelson. Photo: Nathan Hinze.
For some venues, it’s all about one dish, one thing that brings the crowds in and keeps the chefs busy. For The Keelson, the new venue in the Nauticus / Dogstar stable, that dish is rotisserie chicken. Yes, the space is very nice, full of wood and nautical nods and clever coat hooks that fold into the booths so you don’t catch your leg on them as you pass. Yes, there is an enormous porthole window from the main bar to the raised dining area that will draw your eye and perfectly frame the old man in the bar with his pint of Tennent's, and yes, the smoked haddock fritters (£8) are a bit like the fishy cousins of the zeppole up the road at Tipo and should not be missed.
But this place is all about the chicken, and it’s absolutely brilliant. For starters, this thing could take Big Bird in a fight. A half-chicken is £25 but there’s so much of it that it will genuinely feed two people without anyone needing to be all polite and British about it. It’s super-simple with plenty of salt, pepper and fat, but it's another example of skill and knowledge in the kitchen coming home to roost. The result is an incredibly juicy and flavourful lunchtime treat; throw in some new potatoes and shake them around in the buttery juices, get a salad as a nod to health, and you’re looking at one of the very best Sunday lunches in town. As any seasoned Fringe-goer will tell you, the best acts are the ones who commit wholeheartedly to the bit, and see their plans through with gusto and skill – whether it's pintxos, poultry or pan-fresh dosa, these three have that attitude in spades.
Bar Dani, 1126 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8TD; Tue 5pm-1am, Wed-Sat 12pm-1am, Sun 12-8pm
Masala Wheels, 76B Gorgie Rd, Edinburgh, EH11 2NB, Thu-Tue 4-11pm
The Keelson, 58 Shore, Edinburgh, EH6 6RA, Mon-Thu 2pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am, Sun 12pm-12am