Devil's Advocate, and learning all about whisky

Whisky is all about storytelling and heritage – if you want to get up to speed (or work out what everyone else is talking about), check out The Devil's Advocate in Edinburgh's Old Town

Feature by Peter Simpson | 06 Aug 2024
  • Devil's Advocate

Whisky is the elements – our earth, our water, our history. Whisky is a time machine, a chance to taste something decades in the making. Whisky is a man in muddy overalls wheeling a barrel of brown liquid that's worth more than his house, while a gent with a magician’s moustache holds court in the gift shop comparing everything to pears and caramel.

The lore around whisky is flavour text in every sense of the phrase, a whirl of information, liquid genealogy and optional side quests. But sometimes the main quest, the central issue of ‘Do I like whisky and if not why not?’ gets lost amid the endless vibe-checking.

The Devil’s Advocate has some of that whisky vibe; the drama and history of approaching through a narrow close off the Royal Mile. The cosiness of the bare walls, like stepping into an extremely large croft. But then you pick up a drinks list, and realise that no matter where you are on your whisky journey, this is a good place to be.

Want a nice dram? These guys have options from all over the place, some rare ones too. More of a cocktail fan? Have an Old Fashioned – there are six to choose from. Unsure about whisky? The benefit of going to a good bar is the staff know what they’re talking about; tell them your tale, and they’ll recommend something you might like.

Whisky is a liquid that people drink because they think it tastes nice and it makes them feel all warm inside. Find a person – a pal, a relative, or a bartender somewhere like the Devil’s Advocate – and ask them which whisky they love. I recommend a nice light Speyside, as I am a wimpy city boy who doesn’t like it when the expensive drink burns my nostrils. Whisky is about stories, and your tale should be top of the list.


Devil's Advocate, 9 Advocate's Cl, Edinburgh; open daily, midday to midnight (1am on Fri and Sat)
devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk / @thedaoldtown

This article is from issue one of GNAW, our new food and drink magazine dedicated to sharing stories from across Scotland’s food scene. Pick up a free copy from venues across Scotland, and follow GNAW on Instagram @gnawmag