Chip Advisor: The Anstruther Fish Bar

Arriving in the charming seaside town of Anstruther is always a treat; proud boats stand tall in the harbour on one side, quaint shop fronts on the other. But the excitement truly starts when you catch a glimpse of the winding queue out the door and up the alley that runs down the side of the Anstruther Fish Bar. On busier days, they take orders from the queue to help speed things up, although time doesn’t really matter as hungry chatter among friends, old and new, dances on the salty sea breeze. It becomes quickly apparent that most are here for one thing, and one thing only: fish and chips. But not me. I’ve been allergic to fish my whole life, so I’m mainly here for the vibe, the sense of occasion; alternative battered goods and chips are just a bonus.

Another bonus is the jolly statue of a bearded fisherman – dressed in banana yellow waders, raincoat and sou’wester, holding his catch of the day – who greets you on entering, signalling that it’s almost time to eat. Mood and location dependent, to turn our chips into a ‘supper’, regular go-tos include battered pork sausage, white pudding (a melt-in-the-mouth oblong of well seasoned oats, barley and mouth-coating fat), or a blood-filled black pudding – only Stornoway will do! When in Fife, red pudding is a must; think square lorne, but in a more classic sausage shape.

Whatever the choice, it's topped with salt and brown sauce, before we find a spot to sit in the harbour. Squawking seagulls overhead, dogs chasing their tails, the lapping of water, the toot of a boat, and chat among pals as we tuck into our meal is one of life’s simple pleasures. And this feeling goes far beyond Anstruther – chippies in Ullapool, Crail, Mallaig, Portobello, Musselburgh and beyond are ingrained in the landscape. Yes, you can get a chippie on almost every high street in Scotland, but a bag of goodness from a coastal town is where it's at, fish or no fish.

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Anstruther Fish Bar, 42 Shore St, Anstruther. Open daily 11.30am - 8.30pm (9pm on Fri and Sat)
anstrutherfishbar.co.uk / @anstrutherfishbar on Instagram

This article is from issue one of GNAW, our new food and drink magazine dedicated to sharing stories from across Scotland’s food scene. Pick up a free copy from venues across Scotland, and follow GNAW on Instagram @gnawmag