Song for the Ages: ARI, The Spirit of Korea

Jeongseon may only be a few hours from Seoul by car but in many ways, it feels like another world. Located in the mountains in the eastern part of South Korea’s Gangwon region, it’s an area characterised by its striking natural scenery, limestone monuments and colourful temples, as well as being home to a ski resort and the only domestic casino that is open to South Korean citizens. Culturally though, it’s a region of great significance to Korean culture, having birthed the Jeongseon Arirang, a popular local folk song handed down through generations. Translating roughly to 'my beloved one' in ancient Korean language, it is said that the song was composed by scholars during the Joseon Dynasty, but its origins largely remain a mystery.

Pulling into the remote, mountainous landscape on which the Jeongseon Arirang Centre sits, there is a peacefulness in the view of the traditional houses of the adjoining Arari Village. It’s a suitable precursor to what will be a day full of introductions to Korean cultural heritage, starting with our reason for this trip – a performance of the creative musical Ari Arari. In this production, which made its debut during the PyeongChang Winter Olympics in February 2018, the traditional tale of the Jeongseon Arirang is subverted to provide a modern twist. The original story follows a man and a woman in love but separated by two rivers, ending in tragedy. Ari Arari, however, places its focus on a family and unites the couple in marriage, with their child singing a new version of the Arirang that their parents used to sing, to emphasise its pull across generations.

“We created this piece with the hope that by modernising comprehensive aspects of Korean traditional culture, including music, dance, and instruments, it can be enjoyed by people around the world,” the show’s writer and director Jung-Hwan Yoon explains.

“All the music in our performance is based on the melody of Arirang, but we have adapted it with modern instruments and arrangements to make it enjoyable for contemporary audiences. We hope the fundamental melody of Arirang will feel familiar and comforting to international audiences as well. Even within the modern instrumentation and arrangements, traditional instruments are subtly embedded.”

The production includes Korean dance, martial arts and drumming, all of which unite to offer a colourful spectacle that draws attention to the wide array of talent on stage. Following the performance, actor Hyeon-Uk Gye tells us more about the make-up of the cast: “In our performance, there is little distinction between the lead roles and the ensemble. Over the past seven years, I have taken on both ensemble and lead roles, and this season, I have the responsibility of playing the lead character, Gimok.

“This character must embody Jeongseon Arirang through performance, which brings a strong sense of duty to perform well,” he continues. “To master Jeongseon Arirang, I lived in Jeongseon for seven years, learning and practising at a place called Jeonsugwan.”

The sheer commitment required to master this artform is evident in the quality of the performances on stage, but also in the passion with which the actors discuss Arirang and the success of the production, both locally and abroad. This is echoed by the Mayor of Jeongseon, Seung-Jun Choi, who greets us at the Jeongseon Arirang Centre and later explains the importance of the folk song.

“As it has been passed down orally, Jeongseon Arirang has become a symbolic cultural heritage of Jeongseon County, and its value continues to be recognised to this day,” he notes. “Over the past decade, performances in Budapest and Adelaide have demonstrated that Jeongseon Arirang can transcend language barriers and resonate emotionally with local audiences.”

Having won the accolade of Best Physical Theatre at the Adelaide Fringe in 2023, Ari Arari, renamed ARI: The Spirit of Korea, will soon be arriving at the Edinburgh Fringe, as part of the Korean Season, produced by AtoBiz and the Global Cultural Exchange Committee.

“With ARI: The Spirit of Korea, we aim to provide audiences with an authentic and immersive experience of traditional Korean culture,” Angella Kwon, Artistic Director of AtoBiz, says. “We hope that audiences will gain a deeper appreciation for the beauty and intricacy of Korean traditional music, dance, drumming, and martial arts. ARI is more than just a performance; it's a journey into Korea's rich cultural heritage.”

For Kwon, who has been producing Korean work at the Edinburgh Fringe since 2015, ARI is a perfect amalgamation of traditional and modern Korean culture. By bringing it to Edinburgh, her hope is that it fosters a deeper understanding between cultures and sparks a sense of curiosity in audiences who may have little knowledge of East Asian arts. Likewise, for Mayor Seung-Jun Choi, the production’s journey to Edinburgh marks a momentous step in its ambitions.

“Participating in this festival with the Jeongseon Arirang performance is a significant opportunity to showcase the symbolism and value of Arirang to an international audience,” he says. “It will also allow us to understand how foreign audiences interpret and connect with our performance, helping us identify the needs and preferences of diverse audiences. This participation is crucial in promoting Korean traditional culture, or K-culture, on a global scale.”

As we leave Jeongseon, we’re each handed a gift bag to commemorate our visit. Inside is an ornate music box with a figure on top, which, when twisted, plays the central refrain from the musical. It serves as a reminder of not only a special trip, but of the way music can travel centuries and borders, with new generations continually working to keep traditional artforms alive and thriving.

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ARI: The Spirit of Korea, Assembly Hall (Main Hall), 1-25 Aug, 1.30pm, £18

Arusa Qureshi’s trip to South Korea was made possible by the Jeongseon County and Global Cultural Exchange Committee