ECA Fashion Graduates Showing in London

Words: Lindsay West

Photos: Jack Waddington

Showing this month at Graduate Fashion Week in London, this year's Edinburgh College of Art graduating class of fashion up-and-comers are an impressive bunch. Finding inspiration from near, far, and more besides, and translating it into ambitious collections, this is a group of graduates whose futures are worth watching. We have assembled for you just a fraction of the talented young designers whose work was shown at the Morton Fraser Edinburgh College of Art Fashion Show, whose collections are being perused as we speak by London talent-spotters. Take a look, and see if you can spot the next big thing.

1- Winner of this year's Morton Fraser Award for Best Fashion Graduate, Abyssinia Sollitt-Davies' impressive pleated coat dress is her response to the sculptural challenge set by Lochcarron of Scotland to all the graduates. A sophisticated modern twist on the traditional with an obvious abundance of technique, Abyssinia followed her first garment with a colourful final collection packed full of eclectic ethnic influences and a Frida Kahlo feel.

2- With its tiered frills, sweet tailoring and a palette of candy colours, Katie Wood's collection was inspired by the whimsical illustrations of Charlie Harper, the 60s era fashion glitterati, an Italian magazine and a trip to the zoo. Bottomed out nautical hats in sugary tones and an abundance of bows characterised the playful and nostalgic feel; Katie's "lighthearted approach to the summer wardrobe".

3- Stomping to the sounds of Chick Habit by April March, Rachel Lamb's 'Midas' girls walked a line built on 60s shapes and textures, and the fixtures and fittings of Ancient Egypt, by way of 20s flappers. Teaming bubblegum mohair with gold headdresses or full wool headpieces, and 60s teardrop perspex accents with rubber detailing, Rachel's diverse pool of inspiration came together confidently and coherently on the catwalk.

4- An ambitious and ultra high-concept collection, Samantha McCoach's models were swathed in heavy knits in a utilitarian colour palette, a nod towards its origins in Russian Constructivist art. Metallic accents, from copper foil brushed onto chunky knit leggings, to the striking copper boxes carried in place of handwarmers or handbags, added a key industrial element to the collection.

5- Titled 'Domo Arigato Mr Roboto', Richard Welch's collection combined 80s sci-fi muses, art deco detailing, and tailored silhouettes to form one of the most cohesive graduate visions shown. With intricate embroidery and sweet neon accents – plus a cheeky ruffle or two on the backs of skirts and capris – Welch's collection is, he says, built on and for "the modern android: Autumn/Winter 2086"

6- Inspired by monochrome photography, Italian military uniforms, and Klaus Nomi, Frances Cookson's cool twists on the tux produced chilled out tailoring with a hint of rockstar androgyny. An aspirational and impressive collection, special mention must go to Frances' crinoline-esque hooped boning on her tailcoats and dress-jackets – very cool.

7- Also shown was the work of ECA students studying Performance Costume. Graduate Helen McGinley's spooky kids are costumes for Leo and Zillah, two of Edward Gorey's Gashlycrumb Tinies – alphabetical tales of children meeting sticky ends. Leo, who swallowed some tacks, and Zillah, who drank too much gin, wear costumes designed by way of Edwardian juvenile dress.