Fashion Forward
The tastemakers of British fashion descended upon Earl’s Court in London for the annual talent fest that is Graduate Fashion Week. Even design legends Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes rubbed shoulders with fashion students and journalists to get a first peek at the names who will be dressing us in years to come. Sponsored by high street behemoth River Island, some of the prizes on offer are £20,000 and two years’ worth of industry mentoring for the Gold Winner, which are significant enough to change the course of a young hopeful’s career.
The event was even bigger this year, with the inclusion of six world-renowned international schools, from Paris, Amsterdam, Switzerland, Hamburg, Singapore, and St. Petersburg. La Salle Singapore Student Lidya Chrisfens, who showed her “Shipwreck” pieces on the catwalk, said “I’m so excited to see what the European designers here are doing, and also to see how my work is perceived by the employers in this market. It’s very important to gain exposure, especially as here there is little consciousness of the Asian fashion industry. You cannot launch your own label until people have an awareness of your design personality, which they only get to know through events like these.”
Terry Mansfield, Chairman of Graduate Fashion Week agrees that “Talent has no postcode. London is the centre of gravity for new design talent, and by bringing all of the students from across Britain, and now the world, we are allowing everyone the same opportunities.”
The week proved to be a hot spot for fledgling new trends, and one of the key looks indentified was the working girl, masculine aesthetic, which was most beautifully realised in Womenswear winner, Rhea Fields’ subtly subversive nude and black latex garments. However, the underlying mood of the affair was decidedly kooky, with Ravensbourne and UCA Epsom both demonstrating how youthful whimsy and craft detailing could be incorporated into the style agenda. Ravensbourne opened with Bobby Charles Abley’s menswear, with primary colours, Disney-esque mouse ears, comic prints and slightly sinister bondage straps, and so the scene was set for a skewed take on retro childhood motifs.
Another highlight was Sera Ulger’s collection of dazzling graphic prints, edged with mohair details. With painterly renditions of owls, crows and even the extinct dodo in the mix, her collection was like a chic take on Lewis Carroll’s caucus race. Epsom’s definite standout came from Anna Piercy and her playful “Random” collection, demonstrating that taking yourself seriously is overrated, as she showed charming alphabet outfits. An A-line dress came out as an ‘A’ and ‘M’ and meant some heavy duty shoulder pads.
Trends aside, each institute played to its strengths. Whilst Nottingham Trent offered up fabulous gathered knits, and the students of De Montfort demonstrated a flair for prints and adorable perspex accessories, Manchester Metropolitan mesmerised the audience with their forward-thinking designs and dramatic silhouettes. One could have easily been forgiven for thinking that they were at a Comme de Garcons show, with worthy Gold Award winner Rebecca Thomson’s voluminous, yet sophisticated fusion of lace, ruffles, pleating and frills.