Back in fashion: the return of Skinny Jeans
We bring back our fashion column from 2007 to speak to anonymous informants about Big Fashion's relationship with Scotland
Fashion loves Scotland – its landscapes and heritage are irresistible to global labels. As one London-based producer put it, “there’s a rawness and authenticity to the people – nature, objects and people feel interlinked.” But do these brands invest in Scotland’s people, or just borrow its image?
Those working in the industry have seen both sides. One photographer recalls a shoot with an LA label whose founder blended her Californian flair with Highland roots in a way that felt joyful and celebratory. Another stylist fondly recalls shooting with a Spanish brand in Skye: “They were the most welcoming crew, teaching me bits of Spanish as we hiked up the hill together.” Dior’s Cruise 2025 ode to the Auld Alliance is another positive example – its show in Perthshire featured a wealth of Scottish talent, from models to make-up artists. When international brands do their homework, Scotland glows.
But the picture isn’t always so rosy. Shoots often fly in full teams from London, leaving Scottish talent out. Loro Piana’s FW24/25 campaign, for instance, didn’t publicly credit a single local creative – although with the brand’s recent supply-chain scandal, perhaps it’s no surprise they’re not setting the example.
Sometimes the snub comes closer to home, when Scottish brands themselves overlook local talent in favour of London names. “It always stings a bit more when it makes perfect sense to support the Scottish scene by giving opportunities to where they’re scarce," one photographer tells me. Others warn of undervaluation, with lower rates leaving young creatives exploited.
Of course, there's work to be done here too – “there’s a feeling that after you’ve built something here, you have to leave – the industry isn’t strong enough to hold you,” another photographer tells us. Without major events like an established fashion week, or sustained funding, the ecosystem is fragile.
But there's hope for us yet – Hunger magazine’s recent cover, created with a Scottish team, shows us authenticity matters. And let’s not underestimate the collaborative power of working with international teams – as one photographer reminds us, “we should all be able to travel and work in other countries.”
The truth is, Scotland doesn’t just offer a backdrop – we have the whole package ready to go. If global fashion wants to keep mining Scottish heritage, it must also invest in Scotland’s future. But in the meantime, “we have to be creative even when there’s no client proposal in front of us. Making things happen for ourselves and feeding the culture is when the most beautiful work is made.”
All quotes have been anonymised to protect contributors' future career prospects