The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh's West End

This article has been updated for The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh 2023, available now at venues across Scotland. Inside, you'll find summaries of the city's different neighbourhoods, our recommendations on what to do, and deep-dives into the history and community that define Edinburgh.

A sprawling clash of Georgian architecture and dominating office blocks, from Haymarket and Dean Village to the West Port and Lothian Road, where nightlife happens in theatres and grand concert venues, and daytime jaunts to art galleries, coffee shops and bakeries are a must.

Food and drink in Edinburgh's West End

For breakfast on the go, grab a roll with square sausage and tattie scone from family-run bakery Preachers (24-26 Lady Lawson St). When lunchtime calls, a densely packed feta cheese vergas from Greek Artisan Pastries (23 Bread St), a gyros wrap from Ola Kala (202 Morrison St) or a Vietnamese sandwich from Bánh Mì Brothers (141 West Port) will hit the spot. For an all-you-can-fit-in-a-box Afghan buffet, head to Shinwari (46-52 Lady Lawson St).

For dinner, on Lothian Road it's burgers all the way at Bread Meats Bread (no. 92), Thai street food at Ting Thai Caravan (no. 55-57), or Indian and Irani cuisine at Chaakoo Bombay Cafe (no. 117). Find fragrant bowls of pho at Vietnam House (1-3 Grove St), and authentic Mexican food at Taco Libre (3 Shandwick Pl), and if you’re feeling fancy, try The Palmerston (1 Palmerston Pl), or recent Michelin Star recipients Timberyard (10 Lady Lawson St). 

For those gasping on a drink, in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle you’ll find the Blue Blazer (2 Spittal St), with its rotating cask ales and impressive rum selection, while country pub vibes can be found at Teuchters (26 William St), who boast an impressive selection of single malts; play the Hoop of Destiny to be in with a chance of supping a rare nip. For craft beer, head to The Hanging Bat (133 Lothian Rd) or The Wee Vault (7A W Maitland St), and for gin try The Jolly Botanist (256-260 Morrison St) or the tasting tour at the Edinburgh Gin Distillery (1A Rutland Pl). For grown-up cocktails with an Italian twist, there's Hey Palu (49 Bread St).

Timberyard. Credit: Abi Radford

For a caffeine fix a few minutes from Princes Street, Cairngorm (1 Melville Pl) is a must; you’ll also find them slinging hot bean juice out of a hatch at Stag Barber Co. (10 Haymarket Ter). Near the Edinburgh College of Art, an expert cup can be yours at The Source Coffee Roasters (4 Spittal St), while the sweet-toothed should hit up Tasty Buns (67 Bread St) for their boozy bakes. Another must is a visit to the ultra-ccharming, mismatched joy of Lovecrumbs (155 West Port), whose pastel chic sister cafe, Nice Times Bakery (147 Morrison St), can be found a short stroll away. Their classic bakes can also be found at Company Bakery’s (5 Devon Pl) weekend market alongside expertly crafted pastries, award-winning bread and sundries.

Things to do in Edinburgh's West End

Keen art lovers will want to set aside plenty of time to visit the National Gallery of Modern Art (73 Belford Rd); its surrounding sculpture park features works by Henry Moore and Eduardo Paolozzi, as well as a breathtaking Charles Jencks landform. While you're in the area have a proper wander around Dean Village, a super quaint former grain milling village on the Water of Leith.

For a night on the town, the area around Lothian Road has you covered. In the coming months catch everyone from the RSNO and Christine and the Queens to Grayson Perry in the domed Usher Hall, and find a diverse selection of local and touring theatre productions at The Lyceum (30b Grindlay St) or the Traverse Theatre (10 Cambridge St). If vintage gaming under UV lights is more your bag, head to NQ64 (25 Lothian Rd).

Indie shops in Edinburgh's West End

Looking to add another 12" to your collection? Assai Records (1 Grindlay St) can help with that; be sure to check their website for instores while you're in town. Bibliophiles should head for Main Point Books (77 Bread St) or Edinburgh Books (145 West Port), and fans of vintage threads should pay Carnivàle (51 Bread St) and Herman Brown (151 West Port) a visit. For super cute seasonal plants and flowers, head to Lily West (143 West Port), while back near the train station, photography fans should check out Agitate (20 Haymarket Ter).