Own Art: Bespoke Designs at Brazen Studios

Brazen Studios owner and designer Sarah Raffel takes us through their current collection bespoke jewellery design service

Feature by Illya Kuryakin | 13 Jan 2014

Nestled in a quiet corner of Glasgow's Merchant City, Brazen Studios was set up as both a jewellery retailer and design studio in 2004 by designer Sarah Raffel. With its quirky decor and antique display cabinets, it offers a luxurious environment in which to browse for that special gift, stocking a range of innovative, design-led jewellery and accessories by Scottish and international designers, and housing a bespoke design studio and workshop where Brazen produce their unique custom pieces.

"We try to find designers whose work isn't available elsewhere in the city, or who've graduated from Glasgow School of Art, or who have a particular aesthetic that separates it from high street jewellery," says Raffel. Trinkets, necklaces and brooches start at around the £30 mark, while elaborate confectionaries of precious metals, diamonds and gemstones can cost several thousands of pounds. One of the high-end designers, Ana deCosta's work is exclusively available in Scotland at Brazen – she has designed for Swarovski, and her glittering creations are the height of luxury.

A more affordable collection comes from designer Tina Lilienthal – a German-born designer who graduated from the Royal College of Art. Her pieces, adorned with colourful feathers, carved wood and precious metals, are inspired by the aesthetics of tribal dress. Then there are the exquisite 'found object' pieces by Edinburgh College of Art Graduate Grainne Morten – bright buttons and tiny figurines are incorporated into her quirky brooches, earrings and necklaces.

Dutch designers Vlieger & Vandam's striking leather bags are imprinted with the outlines of handguns, crucifixes and handcuffs. Their designs are "controversial, but rather appealing if you have a good sense of humour," says Raffel. "The design came about when they were at design college in Rotterdam, and they were asked to respond to a brief about the rise in violent crime against women." She displays the magnificent handgun handbag: "The piece is called the Guardian Angel bag."

Brazen's reputation as a stockist of alternative, high-quality jewellery and accessories is exceeded only by the success of its celebrated bespoke design studio, which enables clients to design very special rings entirely to their own specifications. Goldsmith Scott McIntyre creates these unique pieces from Raffel's designs, but it is the customer who leads the process. Customers begin by emailing Raffel a selection of images for inspiration: she shows me pieces inspired by Art Deco, and the Mexican Day of the Dead.

"I encourage them to go for images that represent their style, or what they want to infuse into the ring," says Raffel. "I try and get them to steer away from sending me pictures of jewellery – architecture, prints, graphics, personal trinkets and sculpture are what we work with as inspirations." The studio also offers re-modelling work, helping customers re-design and re-set older pieces of jewellery into more modern pieces.

It's a thrilling prospect for Raffel, who clearly enjoys the collaborative process behind the creation of each unique piece. "The scope for design is limitless – you have to be very focused on what you want the final piece to be. First and foremost, it should be a fun process!" Simple designs in silver, with less precious stones, can cost as little as £500, with prices varying according to materials used. A £100 design fee is charged up front, and then taken off the final price. Brazen are always happy to try and accomodate any kind of budget, and will consult throughout the process to make sure the customer leaves happy. "A lot of jewellery is priced around the intrinsic value of the materials," says Raffel. "What we try to do is put the design first."

Pieces costing over £100 can be purchased from Brazen under the Own Art scheme – ask in store for details, or visit ownart.org.uk http://brazenstudios.co.uk