Word on the Street: A guide to literary Edinburgh

City of Literature

Back in 2004, Edinburgh became the world’s first official City of Literature, awarded its newly minted bookish status by the United Nations' UNESCO agency. It came as little surprise: it is difficult to think of a city with as rich a literary heritage as Edinburgh, or as strong an ongoing commitment to supporting and platforming literary culture. This history is writ large across Edinburgh’s geography, from monuments to authors and their works to libraries new and old filling the streets and speaking to a centuries-old tradition that shows no sign of slowing down. For the bookworms among you, there is no better place to be: we give you the lowdown on how to dig deep into the city’s literary offerings.

Pay homage to the authors

Some of Scotland’s most pre-eminent writers were born, wrote or set their works in Edinburgh. Right at the top of Leith on Picardy Place is a statue of the UK’s most famous detective Sherlock Holmes, as written by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle who was born mere yards away from where the statue now stands. Connecting the Grassmarket with Lauriston Place meanwhile are the 150 steps known as the Miss Jean Brodie Steps, named after the titular school teacher of Muriel Sparks’ most famous novel. The [Walter] Scott Monument towering over Princes Street is both stunning and self-explanatory, while down by the Shore, Cables Wynd House – lovingly known as the Banana Flats for their curved shape – are the childhood home of Sick Boy from Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting.

Festivals

Edinburgh’s most iconic literary festival is the Edinburgh International Book Festival – the world’s largest book festival that takes place over two weeks every August. This year’s edition runs 15 to 30 August, welcoming over 600 authors from over 40 countries. And it wouldn’t be Edinburgh if a Fringe programme didn’t evolve alongside: Book Fringe, this year organised by bookshops Lighthouse, Argonaut, Wedale, and Greenhouse Books & Records. There are also other festivals throughout the year: Push the Boat Out, the city’s international poetry festival, runs every November; Lighthouse Bookshop put on their Radical Book Fair also in November; Cymera Festival, dedicated to all things sci-fi and fantasy, takes place in late spring; and the Scottish International Storytelling Festival, held at the dedicated Scottish Storytelling Centre on the Royal Mile, puts together a programme of performances, workshops and readings every October. 

Edinburgh International Book Festival. Credit: Mihaela Bodlovic.

Libraries and Museums

Edinburgh is home to Scotland’s only legal deposit library: the National Library of Scotland. It’s a beautiful building on George IV Bridge, and features a yearly programme of exhibitions and events, as well as public access to every book published in the UK. Across the road is the also beautiful Central Library, one of 28 public libraries served by the local council across the city. Further into the Old Town is the Scottish Poetry Library, perfect for discovering local poets whether through their collection or events. Also off the Royal Mile is the free-to-visit Writer’s Museum: the collection celebrates three of Scotland’s most famous writers – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson – as well as hosting exhibitions on other important moments in Scottish literature.

Bookshops

What would a bookish city be without its bookshops? Not only places to fill your shelves, Edinburgh’s independent bookshops serve a crucial community function, platforming local authors, hosting community events and generally offering a soft space to land in the neighbourhood. Below, we spotlight the city’s most indispensable offerings – from labyrinthine antiquarian caverns to queer, radical spaces responding to the needs of their neighbours.

Argonaut Books
15-17 Leith Walk
Leith’s community bookshop, with a diverse stock and programme of in-person events. 
argonautbooks.co.uk

Armchair Books
72-74 West Port
Family-run second-hand bookshop with the city’s finest About page, ‘staffed by Edinburgh’s finest book people who brave the shop’s untraceable noises and unique microclimate.’
armchairbooks.co.uk

Book Lovers Bookshop
6 Melville Ter
The first brick-and-mortar bookshop in the UK dedicated solely to romantic fiction.
bookloversbookshop.co.uk

Ginger and Pickles
51 St Stephen St
A thoughtfully selected range of kids books, with beautiful titles ranging from baby to young adult (plus a small stationery selection).
gingerandpicklesbookshop.com

Golden Hare Books
68 St Stephen St
A cosy space filled with a finely chosen selection of writing, art books, and children’s titles.
goldenharebooks.com

Armchair Books. Image: Simon Hir

Lighthouse Bookshop
43-45 W Nicolson St
Edinburgh's radical queer bookshop, with an incredible array of fiction and non-fiction alike.
lighthousebookshop.com

The Portobello Bookshop
46 Portobello High St
A gorgeously designed, gorgeously curated seaside bookshop, complete with fiction, art books, and a stunning magazine collection.
theportobellobookshop.com

Rare Birds Bookshop
13 Raeburn Pl
Much-loved independent book shop championing women authors.
rarebirdsbooks.com

Tills Bookshop
1 Hope Park Cres
A second-hand bookshop overlooking the Meadows specialising in rare and antiquarian books.
tillsbookshop.co.uk

Topping & Company Booksellers
2 Blenheim Pl
A veritable labyrinth of book rooms complete with book ladders and window seats, where you may be offered a complimentary tea.
toppingbooks.co.uk

Typewronger Books
22 Bruntsfield Pl
Formally a Leith institution, Typewronger Books and their stock of books, independent publications and zines move to Bruntsfield this summer.
typewronger.com