Harrogate's Norse on the secrets of Nordic cuisine

Following strong feedback from national critic Jay Rayner, listings in the Good Food and Michelin guides, 2 AA rosettes and accolades in the Observer Food Monthly Awards for the original pop-up at Harrogate's Baltzersen's cafe, Nordic-inspired restaurant Norse now has its very own space on Swan Road.

As it settles into its new home, and ahead of events at Leeds Indie Food festival in May, we speak to owner Paul Rawlinson, who talks us through the Northern European larder – and what it is that makes the cuisine of Norway and Scandinavia just so appealing here on this side of the North Sea.

Norse on our obsession with all things Scandi

"On a basic level it’s an approach to food and eating that is inherently sensible so it’s not something that will come in and out of fashion. It’s about using what is available locally and preserving what you can’t use now for later in the year to give breadth to your diet in the colder months. Nordic food, through Noma and similar, has made a significant imprint on the restaurant industry worldwide and has informed the way chefs approach their work.

"I think Scandi food is similar to Scandi design: it’s timeless."

 

Nourishing food for the body and soul

"Nordic culture is a broad term, as the countries have different identities. Norway is the country where my family are from so that is the one I am most familiar with. For a long time Norway was a relatively poor country although rich in natural materials like timber and a strong fishing industry. The food is nourishing for the body and soul, it reflects people who work hard and have always been closely linked with nature. The kind of food I would eat with my family in their homes is relatively simple but delicious; bread, jams, pickles, fish, cheese and some meat. Potatoes are a staple and dairy is used extensively in baking and cooking.

"In terms of the restaurant scene there is a broad range of styles, but the well known Nordic style would be understated presentation with only a few processes used to create dishes that best represent the hyper-local ingredients on the plate."

Beyond the fermented herring...  

"I think the stereotypes often centre on the Swedish chef from The Muppets chucking meatballs around, and also periodic documentaries where chefs or celebs will brave opening and eating a can of Surströmming (fermented herring). The capital cities such as Copenhagen and Oslo have fantastic modern food cultures.

"Bakery can also be overlooked; bread is a huge staple in the diet of the Scandinavian countries and traditions from German and Austrian cultures have been fully appropriated and adopted."

Key ingredients and flavours 

"It’s a Northern European larder so many of the ingredients are common to the UK. Potatoes, root veg, and right now wild garlic. Mixed into that you have some exotic spices like cinnamon and cardamom that reflect the history of the region as trading nations and explorers. Then you also have the availability of game, especially venison, and lots of fish and shellfish from a prodigious amount of coastline.

"Curing, drying, pickling, fermenting – Nordic food has the lot, as most other cultures do in some shape or form. It’s all driven by necessity and that requirement to preserve the abundance of the summer months for the long winters ahead."

Making Nordic cuisine at home

"Gravlaks is super simple to do at home requiring only salt, sugar and some spices like white peppercorns and coriander seeds. Mix the cure, apply to a side of salmon with plenty of chopped dill. Wrap in cling film and place in a container in the fridge, turn after 12 hours, wash clean after 24 hours and slice thinly on the diagonal for delicious cured salmon."

---

Norse Presents: The Spa Exchange (part of Leeds Indie Food) at Leeds Corn Exchange, 12-13 May, 5-11pm

Norse
28a Swan Road, Harrogate, HG1 2SA
norserestaurant.co.uk

See what's on the menu at Norse here. Photos: Andrew Benge