Paz Taqueria, Edinburgh

In these trying times, it’s nice to see a new opening that has people excited, even if that extends to us getting KB’d for a table at half-six on a Thursday and ‘forced’ to go to the pub for half an hour. Paz has the folk buzzing for good reason – it’s on the site of the original El Cartel taco spot on Thistle Street, and is the brainchild of Stuart McClusky, formerly of Bon Vivant and… El Cartel. A complex web of hospitality comings-and-goings? A Ship of Theseus-type deal, but with tacos instead of an old wooden ship? Either way, people are on board. The Thistle Street Bar, by the way, is lovely. Good pints, a nice fireplace, would recommend.

Once we do make it inside, Paz is the same dark, moody spot we remember. They’ve painted the walls teal so it isn’t as pitch-black as it was before, but it’s still an atmospheric dining room ideal for conspiratorial chatter. Speaking of chatter, it’s time for drinks from a short, no-nonsense cocktail list – the Rosita (£9.50) is a tequila-inflected negroni with a great balance of bitterness and citrus, while the Margarita (£9.50) is just a solid, top-notch example of the form. Sour, strong, salty, see this lads this is what you should be doing.

Paz Taqueria on Thistle Street, Edinburgh. Photo: Gabriela Antunes (@gabs.pphotos)

The food menu is similarly well-formed, with a handful of starters and a handful-and-a-bit of taco options, skewing heavily towards meat-eaters and spice-lovers. First up, the Tinga (£8.50) – pulled roasted chicken in a fruity, spicy sauce. It’s a well thought-out taco, and taking a big bite is pleasingly non-shambolic, with dots of cheese and herbs here and there – the number of times we’ve seen chefs load up tacos like they’re trying to win a game of Buckaroo, you wouldn’t believe it. The chicken is juicy and well-spiced, with a sprinkling of powdered chicken skin on top for an occasional crispy, salty kick. Keep this ‘small crispy things’ motif in mind, it will come up again shortly.

The frijoles refritos (£6.50) are small, punchy, and absolutely ripping hot – if nothing else, this ensures that they last a while on the table. They’re paired with puffy, crunchy housemade chips that remind us of early-millennial childhood favourite, the 3D Dorito. Having taken one step away from carnivorism and towards 'beans', we take three or four back with the Carne taco (£8.50). This thing is spectacularly unctuous, thanks to the double whammy of a thin wedge of steak and a thick smear of bone marrow crema. With the meat box thoroughly checked, tiny shredded fried leeks bring the crunch and a slice of avocado lets you kid yourself that this counts as one of your five-a-day.

It’s a similar set-up with the Lengua (£8.50), but to a totally different outcome. Yes, there’s still a small pile of cow meat in your right hand, but this time it’s braised ox tongue, refried for the classic combo of crunchy edges and a soft interior. A sour, savoury salsa verde takes the place of the bone marrow, and scattered onions and radishes brighten everything up. It’s very very good, and surprisingly sturdy. Shout out to the tacos themselves, they hold up well (in the course of our evening, we only have one complete blow-out where the whole tortilla falls to bits – that’s a good hit-rate).

Looking down the menu, and at the dishes when they arrive, there is a sense that the folk in the kitchen are having a good time. Nowhere is that clearer than in the Ejotes (£7.50), because this taco is, and I mean this in the nicest way, mad as shit. Green beans, spinach, something really spicy that we can’t quite work out, a red onion and thyme cheese, a really, really savoury and garlicky note, and a big fingerful of those crispy leeks. Often the ‘vegetarian option’ feels designed to cover as many bases as possible; this one feels like a deliberate attempt to goad the meat-eaters into having a bit of fun while also getting some greens. It’s a mini whirlwind of flavours and textures, but even this taco doesn’t manage to throw itself all over the place. 

Obviously, Paz is heavily reminiscent of El Cartel – it's a taco place in what used to be a taco place, run by some of the same people as before – but it feels much more experimental and exciting. Intriguing and delicious dishes covered in little fancy flourishes, with great drinks and, dare I say it, a 'cool vibe' – no wonder the place is so busy.

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64 Thistle St, Edinburgh, EH2 1EN
Mon-Tue 4-10pm, Wed-Sun 12-10pm
instagram.com/paz_tacos