Make a Roast: Scotland's coffee microroasteries

If you want a job done properly, sometimes it's best to do it yourself. You can control the process, you can decide who to shout at when things go wrong, and you can accept the rightful adoration when everything goes to plan. It's true in many walks of life, and an increasing band of tiny microroasters are applying the logic to the art of producing coffee (although probably with less shouting and more skill). But, we hear you ask, why make your own coffee?

For Matt Carroll of Fortitude Coffee, the benefits of taking charge are twofold – you know where everything comes from, and the more control you have, the easier it is to steer the final cup of coffee in the right direction. Carroll says: "We liked the idea of having complete traceability from farm to cup. Our customers know when, where and who roasted their coffee and we can tell them a lot about where the coffee came from and the journey it took to reach their coffee cup in Edinburgh. We also liked the idea of being able to tailor our coffee menu to the types of coffee we particularly enjoy by exploring how to roast really sweet coffee."

For Todd Johnson, one half of Leith-based roastery duo Williams and Johnson, the idea of roasting one's own was part and parcel of starting their own venture. W&J first met working together at a branch of local coffee legends Artisan Roast – "I had met Zack playing rounders in the Meadows before but didn't know him very well when we hired him" – and soon hit on the idea of starting their own place. Johnson says: "We didn't even know if it would be coffee, for a long time we wanted to open an oatcake and hummus bar. Basically we just liked hanging out in a cafe."

After spending two years at Market Lane roasters in the coffee hotspot of Melbourne, with Zack working at North Berwick's Steampunk Coffee, Todd returned to Edinburgh to make the duo's dreams come true. Well, almost: "The problem was that I didn't want to open a cafe with any of the coffee that was locally available at the time, and an interest in roasting had taken over. Zack was on his own journey of wanting to do things his own way and for himself, so that was it, we bought a very expensive coffee roaster."

Roasting coffee in Scotland

So with the 'why' out of the way, now we'll get to the elephant in the room. Coffee is grown in the Tropics, across Latin America, Africa, Asia and Brazil (ironically enough, plenty of elephants in some of those places). Scotland is categorially not in the Tropics; we're lucky to get the occasional day or two of sunshine before the sideways rain comes on again. For the intrepid microroaster, a keen logistical mind and eye for meteorology become almost as important as a good palate and a dab hand with an espresso tamper.

The weather can play havoc with what is a very particular craft. As Johnson says: "When you need to put 12kg of zero-degree coffee beans in the roaster, that really changes the way you need to roast the coffee, compared to a roast profile that was designed when it was twenty degrees hotter the week before. But I guess that's what keeps it fun."

And he's able to see the bright side to Scotland's position: "One benefit we have compared to Australasia is that we are closer to almost all of the great coffee-producing countries so it takes less time to ship, and it's fresher when it arrives here. Edinburgh has a great cafe scene and it's always changing, so we think we are in a pretty good spot for what we do."

For Fortitude it was a North American purchase that caused the first issues. As Carroll says: "The biggest challenge was ordering our 12kg Diedrich roaster; it took about three months to make and ship from the United States. Manoeuvring the half tonne piece of kit into place was terrifying."

Fortitude get their coffee as green, unroasted beans from importers who source single origin coffees from across Africa and South & Central America. Carroll says: "It's really exciting to be part of the journey the coffee makes, starting as green beans and finishing as a brew on the coffee bar." Over at Williams and Johnson, importers are a key cog in the chain as "Arthur's Seat is not tall enough or hot enough for us to grow coffee on, and we probably wouldn't be allowed."

Microroasteries and Scotland's coffee scene

Luckily, the number of microroasteries trading has led to an increase in small importers handling expertly-sourced beans in handy quantities. One of W&Js importers recently turned up at the roastery with samples they'd brought straight back from a trip to Ecuador, and these scouts head out around the world to act as middle men between the farmers and the people who turn their hard work into a great cup. 

Much like the diversity that independent bars, restaurants or coffee shops bring to a local food scene, locally-roasted coffee from small suppliers brings an air of intrigue to proceedings. Coffees might – gasp! – taste different from one another, and you might end up with a favourite to look out for when it's on the bar. Maybe you think 'I could make my own coffee, as I know what I like and that's the most important thing'. Well cool your jets hotshot, as Todd Johnson is here to remind you of the challenges involved: "We think it's great that there are lots of small coffee roasteries popping up. We also think a lot of people probably think it's easier than it is. We actually probably thought it would be easier than it was.

"It has been a long year-and-a bit for us. There are a lot of expenses involved with running a roastery, and for us to sell the coffees we want to at a competitive price we need to be getting pretty busy just to break even. Don't get me wrong, we love it – but it ain't easy." Still, that effort's worth it for Johnson, who says: "We see coffee as a very special treat and think that, like most fine things, it should be enjoyed in moderation. It's our belief that every cup should be worth it."

On the diversity front, Carroll believes that the proliferation of small roasters is a key part of Scotland's ever-growing coffee scene: "Smaller roasteries bring a lot of creativity and individuality. No coffee is roasted the same and there is always something new to try.

"It provides Edinburgh cafes and coffee shops with some really interesting local choices. Micro-roasteries can also ensure a very high quality product by roasting and buying in smaller lots. Using higher quality, speciality importers also ensures that the farmers receive the highest price for their product. We feel Scotland has a very strong roasting scene and we are proud to be part of it."

Tasting Notes

And the end product? At Fortitude, Carroll says the goal is to "roast with sweetness in mind". He says: "We want this to be the first impression of the coffee. We will then begin to enhance the inherent flavours of the coffee. We tend not to roast with a set idea or signature style. When roasted gently, the coffee is normally pretty good at revealing its flavour profile. Whether the coffee is fruity and zesty or delicate and floral, we try to highlight this in the cup."

Williams & Johnson's seasonal espressos, says Johnson, are designed to be "sweet and fruity but with enough body and depth to back it up whilst always being very clean". As Johnson puts it: "That's a lot to ask of a coffee, but when it is good and fresh that's how it should be." And when you put in the time, effort and dedication into your coffee like Scotland's microroasteries do, you've earned a bit of help from your beans.