E11 (Hot Aches)

MacLeod fell several times, often as far as seventy feet before being caught by the rope, often at the cost of severe personal injury

Film Review by RJ Thomson | 12 Nov 2006
Film title: E11 (Hot Aches)
In the spring of 2006, Scottish climber Dave MacLeod achieved the goal he had been striving towards for two years: the hardest traditional rock climb in the world, 'Rhapsody'. 'Striving' is almost lacking the hyperbole required to convey the determination, bordering on an obsession, with which MacLeod approached this ambition. Quite apart from the enormous physical strength and hard-won technical ability required, he fell several times in the course of his project, often as far as seventy feet before being caught by the rope, often at the cost of severe personal injury.

Impressively, the climb in effect broke the traditional grading system for climbing difficulty. The title 'E11' comes from the new, off-the-scale, Spinal Tap-like degree of difficulty MacLeod has mastered.

The location for this epic feat may well surprise many readers. 'Rhapsody' is on Dumbarton Rock. The split impressions implied here run throughout the film, in the entirely credible, even life-affirming contrast between this 'ultimate' endeavour and the homely, and familiarly Scottish, character of both the climber and his rock.

The salient criticism of this low-budget, well-handled film would be of its clips of hip-hop and graffiti artists, that have no connection with MacLeod and his charming, softly spoken personal drive. Much better are the interviews with the climber and his wife. They open considerably to questioning, revealing the strains such a singular ambition places on their loving relationship. The footage of MacLeod in action is also great: close-up, gritty and impressive. It is in this, the reconciliation of psychological innocence and frailty with the very limits of human achievement, that 'E11' really excels. Watch and be humbled. [RJ Thomson]
Out now. http://www.davemacleod.com, www.hotaches.com