London Fashion Week – Spring/Summer 2012

FLORAL EMBELLISHMENT

This London Fashion Week Spring/Summer '12 saw designers that specialise in print and embellishment getting very creative with their florals. Ashish burst into bloom with graphic flowers everywhere; Van Gogh style sunflowers, red roses, oriental poppies, french marigolds all in the brand's signature sparkling sequins. Although beautifully feminine, Ashish lost none of its trademark toughness as the garments adorned were simple in shape and had a 90s grungy feel (that was enhanced by the accessorising of chunky workboots and dark lipstick); shorts, sweats, shifts and loose jackets, so the overtly feminine nature of the collection was reined in. Contrasting prints increased the eye-popping nature of the collection, with flowers against brick walls, chessboards, zebra and leopard print backdrops, as well as the combination of differently patterned floral separates.

Additionally, this clashing of floral patterns was seen at Basso and Brooke, famed for their riotous use of colour and bold digital prints. For S/S '12 this meant hard edged exotic foliage being paired with angular, manmade textures and distorted seascapes, a look described by the designers as 'tropical constructivism'. This was inspired by a (car!) journey from London to Beijing and the seemingly ever-changing landscapes on the way. Again, the simplicity of garments, in this case draped dresses, playsuits and shirts in luxurious soft fabric, calmed the  kaleidoscopic floral patterns.

Designers such as Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou used both embellished and printed floral flashes within their collections. Christopher Kane's printed flora were brown and blue, as well as bold and oversized, giving them a distinctly wallpaper-like retro feel. However, when printed on angular tailored garments with origami like folds and sharp slashes, or paired with metallic leathers and crisp white shirts, they became thoroughly modern and cutting edge. The stand out pieces on display were nude sheer dresses and tops decorated with bright photographic floral cut-outs, that looked like pressed flowers trapped within the material itself.

Prints again took centre stage in Mary Katrantzou's collection. Rather than the Versailles-like interiors and orderly baroque floral motifs, this time Katrantzou took us outside into the chaotic beauty of the garden itself. The prints have become much more abstract than the literal imagery we have seen in previous collections and were shown on softer flowing garments as well as her hallmark structured pieces. Bright floral prints of all types and in all colours of the rainbow; acid oranges, hot pinks, vivid violets and icy blues were layered together, in the form of sheath dresses over slim trousers and biker jackets over knitwear. 3D floral embellishment was at its height in the form of a surreal bejewelled asymmetric dress made from metal components. Right at the other end of the floral trend spectrum was Erdem, with a sublimely delicate and subtle collection of willowy blossoms in a palette of pale yellows, blues and nudes, which was unashamedly feminine.

For London Fashion Week's last scheduled show, designers Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont brought folklore to fashion (and also to florals); giving us a glimpse into the world of fairies, elves and the otherworldly. Titled Changeling, the Aminaka Wilmont collection was full of stain-like scatterings of soft abstract floral prints in dove grey, white, pale purple and powder blue. The garments themselves were streamlined; including slender body con dresses, skirts and shirts in jersey as well as whimsical billowing sheer chiffon trains. Cut out details and thigh high splits showed flashes of flesh which toned down the sweet and girly connotations of a floral pattern. At the end of the collection moss grey suede jackets and patterned body armour with 3D applique butterflies gave a lovely contrast between masculine shapes and floral feminine details. An enchanting end to London Fashion Week. These designers prove that florals for S/S '12 don't have to be in any way boring or predictable; either, embrace the frothy feminine, wear them in masculine shaped pieces, with crisp tailored separates or with boyish accessories and if you are feeling brave, clash patterns and layer up to create a striking catwalk look. [Alexandra Fiddes]

LUXE SIMPLICITY

Designers had little to hide behind this S/S '12, as some focus shifted to the hidden complexities of craftsmanship and tailoring; ironically, complex, perfect design is that which offers us Fashion Week’s ostensibly ‘simple’ looks. The impact this has had on the season’s colour palette, in turn, is very intriguing.

Most importantly, black and white regained their status as important colours in their own right; they anchor or sometimes wholly made up key looks on silhouettes which would have previously relied on brighter colours in former seasons. The use of black and white was most successfully combined with the season’s male-influenced tailored looks at J JS Lee. Beautiful navy, black and white suits were expertly feminised with detailing such as a subtle asymmetrical cut on the jacket; similarly, skirt lengths were delicately layered without adding overall volume, ensuring a sleek and cohesive silhouette. The final look highlighted the power of black and white best, as a simple black pleated maxi dress was elevated to ‘luxe’ status through the simple addition of a white collar. Ann-Sofie Back’s navy skirts, which were accompanied by black wool jumpers finished off with white cuffs, also deserve a mention.

Far from meaning that other colours become obsolete, the cleaner lines actually allow for more striking juxtapositions of colour against black and white. At J W Anderson, white and pink suits were offset by black studded collars. Holly Fulton used the juxtaposition of colours to great effect; her turquoise cardigan with black and white chequered stripes was inarguably the most succinct manifestation of this particular trend. Lastly, Charlotte Eskildsen’s immaculate Designers Remix collection featured bright (almost neon) pink shirts, styled with beautifully crafted black cigarette pants which featured a slick white racing stripe on the outer leg.

Equally, for some designers colour itself became the anchor of a look; or, in Richard Nicoll’s case, the anchor of an entire collection. Nicoll expertly used a variety of blue hues to create a gorgeous collection which nicely contrasted his pink and black looks. (In a more metaphysical sense, this serenity also offered a nice contrast to the manic chaos of fashion week!) Every shade from powdery cobalt to aqua green was on display, but it was turquoise which was undoubtedly championed across the board. The colour featured in almost every collection, even in those which didn’t strictly adhere to the simpler silhouettes being shown. Bora Aksu’s remarkable collection managed to incorporate turquoise into his demi-couture aesthetic by panelling and roping the key colour across black silk-chiffon dresses to great effect; and at Topshop Unique, a silk turquoise maxi was elevated through the addition of gold Egyptian-influenced detailing.

Whilst turquoise was undoubtedly king, there are only two other colours worth talking about: bright sunshine yellow, particularly hues such as those seen at Mulberry, and playful pink, in either its neon form or in more subtle corals as seen at Issa. The way to wear these new colours? Block. Again, Designers' Remix gorgeous neon pink suit was shown as both a look in itself, and as separates which were paired with black and white counterparts to create new looks. Secondly, designers such as ACNE showed us how to mix hues of the same colour to add texture and depth to the relatively simpler silhouettes shown. A word of caution though; a more difficult look to achieve is the mixing of two or more of the season’s three main colours. Whilst it was successfully achieved at Roksanda Ilincic in the form of a turquoise and hot pink blocked maxi, too much mixing and the look risks losing its ‘luxe simplicity’ feel. [Emma Segal]