The Inventors of Tradition II

Review by Adam Benmakhlouf | 06 Dec 2016

A new publication and artist book incorporates documentary moments for each of the elements of The Inventors of Tradition II project. Conceived by the artist-design collaboration Atelier EB (artists Lucy McKenzie and Beca Lipsombe), the project originally took place around Glasgow during May 2015 with a design collection, exhibition and events programme.

With a lush set of photographs of perfume bottles swapping lids with other cosmetics, a Glasgow-set script of time-travelling adventures by Lucy McKenzie and a fashion shoot of the IOT II line, the expanded monograph becomes an artist book in its own right and a crucial further dimension to the events and exhibition programme.

It's important to remember the context of the original exhibition, researched then taking place in the wake of the Scottish Referendum and the Commonwealth Games. This release comes before their tour of their IOT II collection, and gives a sense of some of the excitement of their different pieces that feature flourishes like abstracted Neo Classical Glasgwegian architectural details, alongside a pixellated Scottish football strip crest. Resisting generalities, they nevertheless say it’s important that Scottish Style remain “uncommodified”, but not ignored.

Lucy McKenzie conducts interviews with 'Mockintosh' jewellery designer Eric Michael, Jill Bryson of Glasgow art punk band Strawberry Switchblade and Ellen van Schuylenburch – a founding member of the renowned Michael Clark dance company. It’s throughout these encounters that McKenzie demonstrates Atelier EB’s extensive and comfortable knowledge, and idiosyncratic interest in the different references and quotations they make in their restaged performances, fashion collections and installations.

In a library sleeve embossed with a detail from the exhibition’s accompanying clothing line, thoughtful design choices are integral to bring together subjects as diverse as favourite 80s teen fragrances, Glasgow cultural policy of the last three or four decades and Bernat Klein’s High Sunderland modernist abode. [Adam Benmakhlouf]

The Inventors of Tradition II, £38 http://www.wearepanel.co.uk