Joseph Pearce's Review
Joseph Pearce’s is my German flatmate’s favourite Edinburgh hangout. I think the affection is based on a sense of loyalty to the northern (continental) European way of doing things - J.P. is one of a quartet of Swedish-run Leith-area pubs. Forget Deuchars and Caley 80, think pear cider and weissebier.
On arrival we were advised to try the 'Joseph Pearce Cocktail' (a very sweet, very red kir royal - rose cava and crème de mure). Thus armed we made our way through the mêlée of tables, chairs and cushions to our corner behind the skinny-jeaned DJ (unobtrusive psychedelic rock. Imagine!). This convivial muddle of styles adds to the sense of cool, attracting chattering, young professionals getting used to their newly found disposable income: badly drawn boys, pashminas, asymmetric haircuts and flat-caps abound.
The menus (arriving within children’s books, très droll) occupy restaurant rather than pub territory. We shared beetroot and spring onion risotto which was kindly provided on two plates (the young staff, who mirror the clientele’s aesthetic, are bright and welcoming), and featured the first instance of the near ubiquitous sweet balsamic jus. Seabass (described by my companion as 'a bit wet') turned out to be an Atkins main, a shame considering how good the potatoes which came with the meatballs and black pudding were. On the plus side it did feature some more balsamic jus… Sweetness is a running theme in J.P. -the pear cider, the logan jam with the meatballs and the roasted veg with the fish were all sweet. The desserts were no different; I can’t remember much about my sundae, but the heavyweight toffee chocolate cheesecake definitely put up a fight.
A traditional Scottish pub it ain't. There are no hand pulled ales and weather-beaten locals here, but nor is there any suspicion of microwaved, pre-prepared food. If you have a sweet tooth and want to eat well in a bar rather than a restaurant (and plan your May Day rioting on your iphone), Joseph Pearce’s is for you.