Umezushi

While it’s no longer difficult to track down decent sushi here in the UK, finding one that’s a cut above the rest proves something of a wild goose chase – especially when in Manchester what you’re after is slightly set back from the main city centre rabble, tucked away under a railway arch near Victoria Station.

Not too hard to find, but certainly one that rewards the curious, Umezushi is arguably the city’s most ambitious sushi joint despite being its tiniest. With just a handful of tables and a few extra seats at a counter facing the kitchen, it’s got the bijou charm that sushi restaurants call for, where fewer covers leave more room for attention to detail.

Whether you go for the tasting menu at £54 per person, pick and mix from the a la carte menu or splash out on a sushi platter, be sure to squeeze in some unagi (freshwater eel) and salmon or scallop sashimi. There’s also a very decent lunchtime express menu, where main dishes hover between £5.50 and £11, and, although the place has become famed for its fresh fish dishes, there are also firm options for vegetarians and vegans.

[Jess Hardiman]