The Skinny On Colombia
For much of the latter part of the 20th century, and the first three years of this one, Colombia had the highest murder rate in the world. Such an awful and recent claim to fame is hard to forget; for ordinary Colombians, it’s a persistent source of shame. But after a decade of improvements that rate has now halved, other violent crimes are becoming rarer, and the country is opening up to tourism. Now, backpackers across South America are quietly raving about Colombia. They’re enthusing about the genuine warmth of the people, the relative lack of other tourists, and the huge variety of places to go and things to see and do. As the shadow of violent crime lifts, it reveals a country brimming with attractions.
Of course, any visitor to Latin America needs to pay more attention to their personal security than any traveller in Europe or Asia. It’s not wise to be drunk and alone at night in Bogotá, to wander into any of the poorer parts of Medellín, or to venture into the FARC-controlled jungles of the south-east. Colombia is off-the-beaten-track; don’t push it. Keep your head screwed on, follow any advice you’re given, and understand that the overwhelming majority of Colombians are good and the overwhelming majority of tourists will go untroubled.
Bogotá is Colombia’s capital, its largest city (pop: 8 million), its cultural and educational centre, and the main entry point for anyone flying in from Europe or the US. The weather is often chilly and overcast, there’s not a lot for tourists to see, traffic congestion is a problem, and downtown is often hectic, strewn with litter, and full of beggars. Many people don’t warm to it and quickly plan their exits, but if you have time, Bogotá is a grower. La Candelaria, the near-downtown old colonial quarter, is full of charm, thanks to 17th century buildings, stunning street art, the students of the nearby universities, and the shops and bars that cater to them. Nightlife in Bogotá is as exciting as in any city of its size, and it’s a good idea to meet some locals to show you around. It’s easy to enthuse about 'friendly locals' anywhere in the world, while indulging in generalisations based on brief meetings with tourist-trained locals. But the warmth of ordinary Colombians, especially apparent if you speak a little Spanish, is inspiring. Go to La Villa’s Tuesday language-exchange night, or any of the regular Couchsurfers’ meet-ups or parties, and you’ll meet young Colombians who appreciate that you’ve looked past Colombia’s bad reputation, and are keen to fill your open mind with reasons to love their country. Don’t miss the Museo del Oro [Gold Museum] either.
Two hours outside of Bogotá is Zipaquirá, where the owners of a massive salt mine have built a dramatic underground cathedral into the salt, more for religious tourists than for the miners, as it happens. Three hours from Bogotá is beautiful Villa de Lleyva, founded by Spanish colonialists in 1572. Don’t bother with the tour of nearby dinosaur prints; just relax in the beautiful gardens and coffee shops of the village itself.
Colombia’s second city is Medellín, nine hours from Bogotá by bus. Medellín’s recent history is dominated by Pablo Escobar, the extraordinarily wealthy kingpin of the Medellín drugs cartel until his death in a police gunfight in 1993. Medellín enjoys better weather and prettier community parks than Bogotá, some of the latter funded by Escobar’s cartel. Tours of the city based on Escobar’s life and influence are popular, but you’ll be supporting his family if you take the expensive tour run by Pablo’s brother. Medellín used to be the most dangerous city in the world, and its murder rate is still more than 30 times that of Glasgow. Almost all tourist accommodation is concentrated in the rich area of El Poblado, a short walk from the main nightlife zone, Parque Lleras. There’s a bewildering variety of bars and clubs around Parque Lleras, and you’ll spot a few dolled-up, plastic-enhanced (ass implants are not uncommon) girls fawning over suited, sunglass-wearing men. Escobar has gone, but the entourage has not. Be sure to save a few days for Guatapé, a gorgeous village 90 minutes from Medellín surrounded by rivers and lakes, where you can also climb a 200m high monolithic rock to see magnificent views of the area. It has to be seen to be believed.
West of Medellín is the Zona Cafetera [Coffee Zone], roughly surrounding the line drawn by Manizales, Pereira and Armenia. Close to the latter is the picturesque village of Salento, where it’s easy to get stuck for longer than you intended, because of the beautiful setting, gentle way-of-life, the atmospheric old bars, and the cheap and comfortable accommodation. From Salento a day-trek in the Valle de Cocora is a must, where you can first arrive at a jungle hamlet surrounded by flocks of hummingbirds, before ascending to a glorious valley full of 100m-high wax palm trees.
South of Salento, the nation’s third biggest city Cali receives mixed reports: it’s no more than functional by day, but its salsa-based nightlife is world famous. Popayán is a beautiful and quiet old colonial town, entirely painted white, like Bolivia’s Sucre. Further south, right on the border with Ecuador, is a magnificent church called Santuario de las Lajas, built 60 years ago in an extravagant gothic style and perched 100m above a dramatic ravine.
On the north coast, on the Carribean sea, is Colombia’s biggest tourist destination, Cartagena. Tourists don’t see the vast majority of this 1 million population city, because the walled old town, founded in 1533, is so beautiful. A long beach on the mainland is backed by soulless modern hotels, but a much better beach is easily accessed by boat. Ignore the painfully slow and expensive tourist boat to Playa Blanca in preference for the local jetboat-taxi which leaves from behind Mercado Bazurto. On arrival, turn left towards the less-developed end of the beach for a quieter and cheaper stay. The water is warm and crystal clear and you’ll be surrounded by little yellow fish just a few metres out; it looks a lot like paradise.
Further east along the coast is Santa Marta, which again features a pretty historical centre, but is mainly used as a jump-off point for the nearby Tayrona National Park. The NY Times advise getting there with a $50 taxi; The Skinny suggests you jump on a bus for $2.50 instead. From the entrance it’s a two-hour walk to the best beaches, through lush coastal jungle where spider monkeys and giant blue butterflies live. La Piscina is, as its name suggests, the best beach for swimming, but the double arch of El Cabo is the most spectacular, and you can sleep in a hammock or a tent just yards away.
Lots of travellers talk of under-budgeting for time in Colombia, because there’s a huge variety of places to go, and everyone seems to get stuck somewhere. I unexpectedly spent two weeks in Bogotá, and could’ve easily stayed longer in Salento, Guatapé and on the Carribean coast. The beautiful ancient village of Barichara and nearby adventure capital San Gil will have to wait til next time, as will gringo diving resort Taganga, the remote Carribean islands of San Andrés and Providencia, the six-day jungle trek to La Ciudad Perdida [The Lost City], and many more places. Few countries on earth can offer so much; Colombia’s reputation will soon soar.
Comments (8)
Add a comment »We are happy to know that you had a safe trip to Colombia and wanted to thank you for your honest assessment of life in Colombia. It is travelers like you who have an open-mind that we welcome with open arms in Colombia, where the only risk is wanting to stay! http://www.medellintraveler.com for more travel information.
Posted by | Friday 03 August 2012 @ 13:58
Report to moderatorAlly,
I really appreciate your intro paragraph in this story. Most foreign journalists color their story's tone with lackluster enthusiasm and repeat the same story that has been repeated over and over again regarding Colombia's security.
I hope you had an opportunity to venture outside of these very on-the-beaten path places and routes. I invite you to discover more with us: http://www.colombiaecotravel.com when you have a chance.
Thanks again for sharing the love for Colombia!
Cheers,
Daniel
Posted by | Friday 03 August 2012 @ 15:11
Report to moderatorWhile I appreciate the overall tone and the information contained in the article, I disagree with some of your observations. Having lived in Bogota for almost four years, I feel far safer here then I ever did in NYC (where I am from) or Paris (where I spent a long period of time). Of course, being aware of your surroundings and possible threats is important any where, even in small cities/towns, across the world -this is not unique to Latiun America and certainly not to Colombia. While downtown Bogota is congested and full of traffic, it is not strewn with garbage or full of beggars as you purport. It is actually much cleaner than many similar areas in other cities. And yes, Colombians are extremely open and inciting to foreigners. I have heard time and again that one of the absolute best things about this amazing country is her people - who are not "tourist trained," but are genuine and sincere.
Posted by | Friday 03 August 2012 @ 18:01
Report to moderatorFor more good information on Bogota and Colombia see: http://www.bogotabrilliance.com and http://www.off2colombia.com
Happy travels!
Posted by | Friday 03 August 2012 @ 19:39
Report to moderatorSeveral tourists a year have been attacked and killed in Colombia, this doesn't get attention. I'm not saying don't go there by any means, but it is disconcerting that no major media outlet seems to know about these events. If this happened in South Africa or the US at that level - countries with far more tourists as well - this would have gotten worldwide and repeated coverage.
Tigre's puzzling comments regarding Bogota sound more like the hugely biased tourist propaganda that the media's engaged in, as do the other comments which are overtly promoting tourism. Bogota is very easily more dangerous than New York and Paris, it's obvious if you've lived in all three. Neither Paris or New York have a crime problem in the first place to even facillitate a comparison.
Posted by | Monday 06 August 2012 @ 14:38
Report to moderatorGerry, a lot of bold statements in your message, any facts to substantiate absolutely any of them? Several tourists a year? what year? since when? No media coverage, do you have a computer, I see coverage for colombia, new york, paris, mexico, guatemala everytwhere in fact. which media channels do you limit yourself to??
New York and Paris, don't have crime problems in absolutely no parts of them? Are you sure, any facts?
I don't mean to be confrontation but if you want to post statements like these at least substantiate them
Posted by | Wednesday 08 August 2012 @ 21:12
Report to moderatorHi, thanks for the comments.
I don't know any evidence that "several tourists a year" are killed in Colombia. I know two have been murdered in Medellin in the last 18 months, and as Medellin is comfortably the most dangerous place in Colombia that tourists visit, the total can't be much higher than that. The vast majority of trouble is confined to locals' disputes. Crime rates in Colombian cities are much higher than those in New York City or Paris, but not necessarily higher than other US cities: the homicide rates of New Orleans and St. Louis are more than double Bogota's, and at least 9 additional US cities are more dangerous, by that measure, than Bogota, including Buffalo (NY state) and Newark (a few miles from Manhattan!).
(I don't have stats for assaults or muggings in Colombia for comparison)
Anyway, Tigre only referred to his perception of safety, and I spoke to several expats in Bogota who also said they felt perfectly safe. Ultimately, so few people actually experience serious crime in their lives that it's usually perception that counts and that's often based on reputation. Colombia's reputation is worse than its current reality, and that's worth saying.
Posted by | Thursday 09 August 2012 @ 22:02
Report to moderatorIt's great to see you so enthusiastic about Colombia and Cartagena. Next time you're in town look us up at http://www.ticartagena.com. We can show you the very best of the city.
Posted by | Tuesday 21 August 2012 @ 02:22
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