Jenny's Bar, Liverpool

Perusing the Ask Me Anything (AMA) pages of Reddit the other day, I came across a thread entitled: 'I teach waiters how to use psychology to improve their customer service (leading to better tips, sales & return to customers)'. Using simple concepts, like mirroring body language and treating customers how they want to be treated, the Dynamic Waiter, as he refers to himself, will change your life. Well, if you’re involved in the hospitality industry.  

Sounds much like common sense, but taken a step too far. Those who have been ‘schooled’ often seem all too conspicuous – copy-cattish or cloyingly affectionate, like a madman or some over-zealous suitor. This AMA brought to mind two very different experiences of service I’d had recently. One took place in a Manchester city-centre restaurant, where the waitress did a thoroughly convincing impression of a monochromatically dressed automaton. The other was in Liverpool’s Jenny’s Bar. It was a pleasant, genuine interaction with someone who wasn’t what I’ve seen described as 'teeth-bearing Disney-princess happy', or clearly out for a tip. I guess what I’m getting at is: balance.

Of course, you could put a good impression down to a one-off, or the particular staff member. But I’ve visited other establishments of Danny Murphy, the man behind Jenny’s, Berry & Rye and Some Place, and the experiences have been equally agreeable. Call it wishful thinking, but I’d like to think it’s indicative of satisfied staff and of a place that swims just strongly enough against the current.

Murphy himself has alluded to doing things differently. When giving tips on opening a bar for the Seven Streets Almanac, he said, 'create an offering so unmissable that you could open in the middle of nowhere and still be busy.' Jenny’s, housed in the former seafood restaurant of the same name and set apart from the city’s drinking hotspots, is a testament to these words. It sure ain't easy to find: keep your eyes peeled for an ever so time-worn awning, a relic of the former eaterie. But, forget the fishy connotations – there’s something almost cinematic about the basement bar. It would come as little surprise to wake up tomorrow to find that Nicolas Winding Refn was using it as a location for his next film. The jungle-scene ceiling, marble bar-top, stained glass, high-backed green leather seating and candle-lit tables all combine to create a strange and unusual harmony. 

And if balance and unusual harmony are to be buzzwords, then we better talk about the cocktails. The Shangri-La sounds like it shouldn't work given the almost ominous-sounding addition of 'Chinese Takeaway Syrup'; but it does, especially with the fortune cookie 'garnish'. There's an odd savouriness (that one might speculate is MSG) that complements the sweet notes. The twists on classics are well executed: their Pool of Life, a take on a Gin Martini, sees the flavour profile of Tanqueray 10 expertly enhanced with grapefruit and lavender bitters, and homemade vermouth. The fresh Aperol Cobbler will help your soul transcend the underground setting on warmer days; and their Espresso Martini is arguably the best in town. 

Those who hotfoot it to the bar might miss the Whisky Business shop, which, contrary to its name, sells much more than just whisky – you can even avail yourself of the tricky-to-find Liverpool Gin. Jenny's permits punters to buy a bottle here and take it through, where you can keep it in a locker and get the bartenders to make you a drink with it. The only indication of a corkage fee is on their Facebook page, where they quote £50 I suppose, if you've got the money, there aren't many other bars in Liverpool that'd make it worth it.  

If you liked this place, try:

Berry & Rye, Liverpool

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