The Artisan Loaf Rises

The vast majority of the UK’s bread is made using the Chorleywood bread process, developed in the 60s as a method of rapidly producing loaves from lower-protein wheat using intensive mechanical mixing and additions that range from the common ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to the less recognisable L-cysteine and sodium stearoyl lactylate. Most supermarket loaves have minimal rising time, leading to poorer flavour development, are par-baked before they reach the store, and one slice of the white variety has a higher glycemic index value than a tablespoon of sugar.

A triumph of efficiency over flavour and nutrition, then. It’s easy to see why artisan bread has seen a huge surge in popularity in recent years, with independent bakeries opening up across the Northwest and more people heading into their own kitchens to get to grips with baking. Record numbers are enrolling on bakery courses according to bakeryinfo.co.uk and attempting to turn their hobby into a business.

Sam Henley, one of the owners of the family-run Baltic Bakehouse in Liverpool, believes that one of the reasons that breadmaking has become so popular is simply a case of availability and the public’s changing appetites: “We got involved in baking because there wasn’t any good bread in Liverpool; the only bread available was supermarket bread, which is very low quality. We wanted to eat good bread, but we couldn’t find anywhere that made it so we decided to make our own.

“The industry is doing well because people are fed up of eating crap – 98% of the bread in this country is factory produced crap, it has no flavour, poor texture and minimal nutritional value. The desire for something better naturally leads to seeking out a better quality product.”

Based in Levenshulme, Manchester, Trove feel similarly. They have recently opened a commercial bakery and supply several of the city’s businesses as well as their own cafe: “We got involved as we wanted real, organic bread for our cafe. There was little supply in Manchester so we began making our own. There is a lot of interest in real bread but we reckon there would be more if people knew what goes into the bread that’s available in supermarkets. We need more support for the craft of real bread.” More info can be found at the Real Bread Campaign (@realbread).

The archetype of the baker has changed too. It's no longer the preserve of either the older generation or generations-old family-run businesses: the rise of younger, hipper independent bakers has helped to make it seem more accessible to all. Just type ‘sourdough’ into Google Trends and you'll see a steady rise in mentions worldwide from 2004 to an apex in early 2014. A sourdough hotel even appeared in London circa 2012. Bread is now seen as fashionable in a way it never was before and has moved far from the simple ‘white or brown’ debate of days gone by. Now, it’s more like ‘sourdough vs rye’.

Liverpool’s newest independent bakery, East Avenue Bakehouse on Bold Street, opened in March. Owners Jo Byers and Charlotte Jones believe that the resurgence is purely down to the taste: “We firmly believe that bread made from scratch every day in our bakery – baked with love and without all the nasties – just tastes better. There is nothing mystical about bread and no right or wrong. The simple things in life make us happy. Bread is a great staple in our diets. Crafted without additives by artisan bakers, it is good for you and tastes wonderful. Historically there is always a place for bread in our hearts and on our menus. It’s the original ‘go to’, and ‘go with’ food item.”

Though artisan bread certainly ain’t cheap, that’s not putting people off. Demand is growing steadily thanks, in part, to information from the Real Bread Campaign and negative PR surrounding supermarket loaves. Paul Robinshaw of Macclesfield’s Flour Water Salt acknowledges that craft bread still isn’t for everyone but it can make sense from an economical point of view: “I know my bread isn't for everyone, either from a price, flavour, texture or crust point of view. What I can guarantee is that my loaves stale slowly and they do not mould. A loaf bought from me on a Saturday would still be good for toast the following Friday.”

Chris Young coordinator of the Real Bread Campaign, thinks the rise in popularity is down to people craving something more unique, he said: “The rise of Real Bread seems to be running in parallel with a growing number of people reporting they’re sick of identikit industrial loaves, both metaphorically and in some cases physically. People are enjoying the chance to choose delicious, additive-free loaves from small, independent bakeries that are owned and staffed by other members of their local communities.”

Although mass-produced or ‘plant bakeries’ still dominate the £3.6bn market (around 80%) there is certainly room for craft breads, which currently have around just 3% of the market (according to statistics from the Federation of Bakers), but as people become more discerning and crave something real and distinctive that figure is sure to rise.

If you want to get kneading at home, are there any tips? We’ll leave you with Paul Robinshaw: “I think people don't know how to make great bread and it's actually very easy. We teach you to use your hands and take your time. People are intimidated by bread, I think a lot of the recipe books are unhelpful and confusing. Buy the best quality flour you can afford. Ditch the bread machine. Wetter the better.”