Tempus

“Drop in for a glass of Veuve Clicqot Rosé after shopping at Harvey Nichols” advises the Tempus website. If you do you will be met by a large softly lit bar, all ochres and browns. Tempus is opposite The Dome and is attached to the George Hotel- well situated for professionals doing lunch and the silk and cashmere evening set. The capacious dining room is impressive: wealth oozing from the dark leather, the shimmering organza, the stone place settings, the oversized wine glasses. It is welcoming even when empty. Quite a feat.

Starters are nearly worth their £5 or £6. A warm 4” round of goats cheese arrived atop a disc of fried bread, carefully lined up on its rectangular plate alongside a cold “sweet and sour” poached pear and a pile of leaves. The pear was actually just sweet but the dish didn’t suffer for that. A good list of main courses ranges from rather pricey but delicious fish and chips, through the likes of roast pheasant or seared tuna with lentil salsa to Buccleuch beef Wellington. I chose whole trout which was cooked well, but the fennel it was stuffed with was rather woody and it had to be supplemented with a side of spring onion mash. The meal was raised by a delicious Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and rounded off by a so-so chocolate tart and very good crème brûlée.

Tempus is expensive. You can find better food in Edinburgh and pay less for it, but you are paying for more than just the food in Tempus, you are paying for razor-sharpservice and opulent surroundings.