The Dogs

For a Wednesday night The Dogs was busy with couples or small groups generating a lively chatter and buzz. “It’s man food” a pink shirted neighbour asserted. He was leaning over from his table, slightly jolly from a post-work drink or two. “But accessible to women,” with a glance at my companion. His apologetic friend looked on embarrassedly.

Man food or not, The Menu at The Dogs is a triumph; a Columbus’s egg. Everything contemporary food journalism has been tacitly urging upon us is here: soused mackerel, boiled salt beef, pork belly, poached coley, etc. Recently fashionable food sustainably sourced to boot.

My coarse ham hock terrine with its punchy piccalilli made for a satisfying starter. Mutton broth with root veg and pearl barley was a well executed, deep, satisfying and soothing main course. I decided to supplement it with “colcannon” – mashed potato with leeks- which matched the mutton for heartiness. Lemon Posset with homemade shortbread rounded off an exceptionally good meal.

Predictable restaurant food is also available; my guest had a goats’ cheese and walnut salad followed by fish cakes and a side portion of chips (large rough unskinned wedges cooked in dripping to a beautiful gold).

The Dogs’ low prices are a big plus. Mains cost around £7 and up, and the sensible wine list ranges from £10.30 for house red or white up to around £25 (including some English wines). Ideally The Dogs could drop the boring steak and chips aspects of its menu (and the dog-decor!) and head further into the nose-to-tail Fearnley-Whittingstall realm, but it is already a delight. Go.