The Restaurant

Hotel restaurants live strange lives. In some ways they are privileged – being assured a steady stream of customers is a boon in such a cut-throat industry. Conversely, having to tempt non-residents through the lobby must be a major problem.

The Restaurant aims high with impressive menus (both a la carte and set). To start, the "assiette of melon served with chocolate ginger sorbet and citrus glaze" sounded, if not seasonal, rather haute. The reality of two large chunks of melon with synthetic chocolate sauce topped by a teaspoon of weak ginger ice irked. The gravadlax was better: Shetland salmon with a good texture was given centre stage, but rested on a rocket and beetroot leaf salad devoid of vim or pep.

Mains showed an admirable reliance on Scottish ingredients. The staple of any restaurant touting Scottish cuisine, venison, was a fine dish – tender, burgundy-centred loin served with a rich cherry sauce and an accomplished potato champ. Sea bass on mushy pea risotto with a light curry cream was disappointing. The soothing sauce failed to unite with a dry chalky risotto and a good if slightly overcooked piece of fish. The meal was rounded off with an impressive cheese board and the rich "brioche and butter pudding with treacle anglaise" (bread and butter pudding with toffee custard).

The Restaurant is hindered by that strange transitory atmosphere that all hotels share. Combined with high prices, patrons other than the hotel's own guests will be hard to find.